AN AMERICAN AT HOME IN PARIS

THESE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

2010-07-14T10:00:00.001-07:00

Julie Andrews may like raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, but after living in Paris for nearly two years, I have come up with a list of my own favorite things that I like about the City of Light that may or may not be in a guidebook somewhere. And here they are just for you:

First I would like to share a well-guarded secret. I like to take advantage of admiring Notre Dame while standing on the Quai St. Michel on the side where the fountain is. If you look around at others, you will likely notice that everyone else is so busy in thought they do not even notice their beautiful cathedral, but that doesn't mean I have to miss out...and neither do you. Just don't tell anyone. If you do, we may have to sell tickets because everyone will want to get in on the act.

If there is a clear blue sky in August, go to Notre Dame around 8pm. The light from the sun shines on the facade in such a way that the statues practically come alive. Afterwards, head over to l'Hotel de Ville and check out its facade too. Incredible!

I also like to check out Sacre Coeur from where Blvd. des Courcelles meets Blvd. des Batignolles. As you approach Place de Clichy, you won't be able to see it anymore, but WOW, what a view while it lasts!

And while we are on the subject of Sacre Coeur and spectacular views, take a peek from the hill where Sacre Couer rests. Oh la la, c'est trés beau! This church sits on the highest natural point in the city and I can survey most of Paris while wandering around this charming and yes, touristy part of town.

I like meditating in Notre Dame during vespers. The music is incredible and I am grateful to be a part of my favorite cathedral's history. Who cares that I am the only one meditating during mass and that I am not Catholic or even a Christian for that matter. I am certainly not bothering anyone and I appreciate the beauty of it all.

I like listening to the bells tolling from all the churches, particularly Notre Dame at noon and somewhere between 5:30 and 6pm. It's simply music to my ears!

For a great place to listen to the bells, walk across the street to Shakespeare & Company. Upstairs in the famous book store's "library", open up the window and let the music flow in. Afterwards, I can sit and relax, while reading one of the many old books waiting to be read. And I mustn't forget to mention that I like the free readings offered in the library or outside in front of the shop from various authors every Monday evening too.

I like that French woman get dressed up for everything. Whether they are going to dinner, a club, to a child's birthday party or if they are simply hanging out with girlfriend at home; expect them to be donning something fabuleaux.

I like all the museums. Paris is not lacking for art, that is for certain. If you are on a budget, it is good to know that many museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. And there are quite a few smaller museums that are free all the time. Here is a link to the places that are free every single day: www.parisinfo.com/paris-guide/argent/gratuite-et-bons-plans/dossier/gratuite-et-bons-plans-dans-les-musees-et-monuments_gratuits-tous-les-jours-toute-l-annee. Sorry mes amies, it is all in French, but you can at least get the names of the museums and then check your guidbook for more information.

I like the Louvre during the week when it is less crowded (note the key word here is "less." It is still crowded). My favorite rooms are the Louis-Napolean apartments; the red room with all the large David's among others; the room where the crown jewelry, China and crystal from the Rennaisance are located; the ancient Iranian section...and a special favorite: while everyone goes to see the Mona Lisa, I, instead turn around and face the largest painting in the museum, The Marriage of Cana by Veronese. The colors are spectacular, the size is enormous and it has a Bachnallian flavor. Who would want to miss that?!

On one visit, I skipped looking at most of the art and focused on the architecture, both inside and out. With all the crown molding, columns, art on some of the ceilings, and so on it is a wonder that the building itself isn't known as a great work of art...it is, after all. The size of the Louvre can be a little overwhelming and it certainly cannot be seen all in one day. Either plan for 3-4 different visits, or pick out the most important rooms to see on a map provided at the entrance...or even better forget the map all together and just wander...it's all good!

I like the garden at Musée Rodin. While the main museum is too crowded, for only a couple of euros you can spend time in the garden where his most famous works can be found. The Thinker and The Kiss among others are just waiting for your visit. Superb!

When I need a dose of the 19th century my favorite spots are the Musée d'Orsay, L'Orangerie and for my Monet fix I take a trip to the Musée Marmottan. Oh, his Waterlillies never looked as good on the calendars I had at home as they do in person!

I like that at any time during the week I can see many elementary school children on field trips at any given museum. Watching six-year-olds as they stare at paintings and listen in awe to their teacher is quite a treat. The French do not have to wait for adulthood to appreciate cultural activities. They are brought up learning about them from early on.

Kids here also experience different cultures from the time they are in elementary school. From day trips to week long trips, the school hosts excursions to Italy, England and so on. For those whose parents cannot afford it the State will fund the bulk of the trip. Everyone gets a chance to see life from a different perspective.

I like French food. No doubt about it the French can cook. Chefs take their Michelin stars seriously and for good reason. The art of cooking and presentation is très important here.

And it is not just about fine dining either. Who can resist all the delectibles at a boulangerie or pattisserie. MMM, delicieux! My favorite sweets (thus far, anyway) are eclairs chocolates, Paris best, croissant aux amandes, opéras, tartes des fraises, religieuses chocolates, Amarino ice cream, nutella/banana crepes (but ask them to put extra nutella in it...we Americans like our chocolate), meringues, macarons, and probably a plethora of other things I am not thinking of at this moment.

I like walking during springtime. Firstly, you can walk off all the calories from the afformentioned list of treats you just ate; and secondly, you just never know who or what you will run into when you walk. You might even get to see some pretty amazing street performers. From fire throwers to classical violinists, it is all here. A new Parisian adventure is just waiting to be had!

I like walking on the Champs Elysées in December. Stroll from l'Arc de Triomphe to Place de Concorde and understand why Paris is known as the City of Light. You can also do a lot of holiday shopping while you are here. But don't forget to stay warm by wearing a scarf, gloves and hat. It is winter after all.

I like the electronic teapots everyone in town seems to have. It only takes about a minute to boil water and you are set to have a steaming hot cup of tea.

I like that whether you have insurance or not, you can still visit a doctor and the usual fee is only 22€!

I like the summer rain, because it cools everything down; it gives nature a much needed drink; the most spectacular light shows are performed across the sky; and the sounds the drops make when it taps on the old buildings and cobblestone, competes with the finest symphonies. What a show!

Continuing on, I like that all the windows of the apartments are open every day during the summer. In my neighborhood, a new neighbor shares different types of music out his window during lunch time. Sometimes it's Broadway, sometimes it's disco, sometimes it's opera...I either tap my toes, or do a full on dance. What fun

I like the Eiffel Tower which can be seen in so many parts of the city, but particularly while walking along the Seine from the Chatelet area, most especially at night when the Tower sparkles with its lights. Monsieur Eiffel had no idea his "temporary" structure would have such a permanent effect on the world.

And florists deverve their own section too. What can I say, the French do flowers with unmistakable pinache. Every window display is a feast for the eyes. If Monsieur Monet were still alive, I am sure he would set up his easel in front of each and every florist's store front.

I like the cobblestone roads...my high-heels and I do not agree on this point, but I am the one typing, so I win out.

I like all the buildings. The architecture here is like no other place on Earth. The various architects must have been inspired by romance. My eyes are just filled with romantic imaginings as I gaze upon, well, everything.

I like the concerts at Sainte Chappelle. The classical music combined with the best preserved stained glass in Europe, along with the throne where many Louis' sat is the best menage à trois one could have without going into a bedroom. It is certainly worth every centime.

The trees, the trees, the trees...did I mention the trees? I am grateful for the numerous trees that align the streets. It gives me some semblance of nature while in a large city as their various shades of green paint the streets with vibrant color. Additionally, I appreciate that they cool me down during the heatwave of summer and they are also host to many birds who sing their symphony of sounds above me. I cannot help but smile.

And speaking of nature, the French like their parks. Just walk around and you will find one near whereever you are located. My personal favorite in Paris proper is the Butte de Chaumont. Waterfalls, flowers, wildlife, lots of grass and even more trees...Hallelujah, a little bit of serenity in a metropolitan area!

I like all the kissing around here. Making out is done on a crowded Metro train, in the park, after dropping off the kids at school...actually it is done practically anywhere. C'est normal!

I like walking down rue Mouffetard on a weekend morning. One can go to the cheese shop for the cheese, the wine shop for the wine and the butcher for fresh salami. Traditionally, the French always shopped at specialty shops on a daily basis to get the best of everything. Unfortunately, this beautiful ritual is being replaced by supermarkets and McDonald's, but the quaint Mouffetard gives us a little bit of history...not to mention, it is a fun way of buying a picnic lunch.

I like going to Mouffetard in the evening too. At the the beginning of the street at Place de la Contrescarpe, you can sit and have a drink, a cup of coffee or a full meal and enjoy people watching, as well as catch a few traveling performers; including the guy with the safari costume. I can't really explain what he does, but he has had his act for years...you will want to pull out a euro or two for this guy.

I like that you do not need a car here. And the planet likes it too!

I like going to the movies here. French people still like to go out to the theater and you know this because there seems to be a theater on every street. You can easily find several theaters next to each other in certain parts of town. The fun is that they actually fill up with people. Oh and in case you forget to buy your candy or drink before you sit down, a concession girl will come to your junk food rescue before the movie starts. Whew, I can't watch a movie without my Haagen Dazs! They sell the good stuff here! And for those of you that do not speak French fluently, that is ok. Just look for English speaking films listed as V.O. (original version).

I like that everyone hangs their laundry here. I never even saw a clothing rack for drying before I arrived. Where once I was annoyed by the inconvenience, now I appreciate the laundry hanging meditation I have while hanging the clothes. It also helps save the environment and that is a big plus.

I mustn't forget the day trips. I like visiting Versailles. I can't get enough of the King Louis' that lived there. What a life. A tour or two is a must for this place. It is not nearly as exciting if you do not know the history. Besides the main chateau, walk the gardens and visit the two smaller estates: Le Trianon and Marie Antoinette's Estate.

I like Chartres. What a beautiful Gothic cathedral. On Fridays you can walk the labyrinth. On almost any day, Malcolm Miller, the resident expert, gives tours in English twice a day. He has been there for over 50 years and he really knows his stuff. He always asks if someone has taken his tour before and inevitably a few people raise their hands. I have taken this sojourn three times myself and each time I am thrilled to I have done so. They are probably the best tour I have ever taken and they are always different. For more information on Malcolm, please visit http://goeurope.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=goeurope&cdn=travel&tm=16&gps=609_108_1362_532&f=20&su=p531.51.336.ip_&tt=2&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.diocese-chartres.com/cathedrale/visites/guieng.htm.

I like Fountainebleau. Yes, it is another chateau, but who can resist that castle that made the king so jealous he copied the ideas here to create Versailles. This is the original! For more information, visit http://www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr/. It is only in French, but if you go to Google and find it there you can use Google Translator to create an English page.

My favorite place on earth are the extraordinary gardens at Giverny. Monet created some of his finest works at his home in this village, using his own backyard as his model. And what a backyard it is! While most people walk through it in a half an hour, I suggest really noticing your surroundings. Meditate, bring a book and check out everything from a different perspective. On my last visit I spent five hours in the gardens alone. Visit http://giverny.org/monet/welcome.htm for more information.

So, these are a few of my favorite things in Paris. How about you? What is on your list?

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Flowers à la Monet

2010-06-01T21:30:00.000-07:00

Eight years ago, I went to Giverny for the first time to see the gardens Claude Monet made famous in the last decades of his life. Japanese style bridges, a never ending array of gorgeous green plants and the waterlillies from the water garden he made famous are all part of this beautiful landscape. Yesterday, with much anticipation, I ventured for a second trip. All these years, I had kept in my memory the beauty of this place and wondered on the way there if I had blown the image in my mind up so much that I might be sadly disappointed when I arrived. I am here to tell you, that I can now pronounce with much enthusiasm that Monet's garden is my favorite place in the world to visit!

I had read years ago, that the first week of June is the best time of year to go to Giverny, because all the flowers are at their height of their bloom. Considering June 1st is my birthday, I took it upon myself to give myself a perfect birthday present and it is safe to say that on this time of year, the views are simply fantastic.

A friend of mine visited last month and the pictures of the flowers were completely different than what I saw. So, I imagine they are constantly rotating what can be seen. I personally saw three different gardeners working their magic hands while toiling in the dirt. I gave a double thumbs up to the first one I saw working the irises of all colors imaginable. The woman behind me offered a bravo along with her merci. She was not exagerating her enthusiasm. From the rhododendrums, irises, roses and a plethora of other varieties, the flowers greet you in such a spectacular way, one can't help to wish that you lived here yourself so that you could enjoy this garden that is like no other.

On my second visit I took along a book and sat on a bench reading. I also spent some time meditating too. Who could resist the peaceful sounds of all the birds twittering above in the grand trees? Other guests may have rushed by, but I took in every sound and every sight for several hours, luxuriating in its magnificence.

As beautiful as everything was the waterlilly garden was most definitely the piece de la resistance. I made certain to enjoy it from several different vantage points, including from a seated and several different standing positions. Oh la la, I cannot get enough! Thankfully, Monsieur Monet lived, worked and breathed this space. I could almost feel his presence painting his works à plein air. And finally, thankfully his son donated the home and property he once lived in to the state, opening its doors to the world. It is quite a site to be seen!

Please visit http://www.giverny.org/gardens/%22%3Ehttp://giverny.org/gardens/ for more information.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée.

HEALTHY LIVING

2010-05-15T09:55:00.000-07:00

Being a California girl, I was practically raised at the health food store. Mom would make her weekly trips with us in tow and I grew up reading labels on packages. Needless to say, sugary cereals for a morning breakfast has never been part of my routine.

Fast forward a few decades and it has been quite a challenge to buy foods in France without a whole lot of stuff that does not do the body any good. When I read labels on food items here I am surprised how many things are filled with unnatural items. What happened to healthy granola?

Milk and cream is a staple in the French culture. It is as though someone stands at each package pouring milk into things that would not normally have milk in it at home. Taboule with milk, n'est pas? As a former dairy addict, I know how good it all is, but since I recently discovered I am allergic to dairy it has limited my diet quite a bit. Oh no, what's a girl to do?

Then there is the sugar problem. When I arrived, I tasted the most delicious homemade mirabelle jam. Mirabelle is a white plum that is a specialty of French fruit growers. After the first bite, I admitedly began eating this stuff out of the jar. You couldn't keep me away from it. I was told that only the natural juices of the fruit were used as its sweetener. After finishing the jam, I ventured to the grocery store to buy some more and discovered that every single jar had sugar as the first ingredient. I was disappointed, but had to have my mirabelle. I took my first bite and all I could taste was the sugar. It certainly wasn't the same or nearly as good as the homemade stuff. I frankly had to give it away.

A word about sugar: it certainly has a place in the Universe, but when one douses the natural sweetness of fruit with sugar, what is the point? So, my search for something to eat in Paris continued.

Thankfully, Naturalia came to the rescue! My hero! With 43 stores in the Paris area, this health food store is breath of fresh air to those conscious about what goes inside and outside your body. Yippee! Granola that is all natural, fruits and vegetables that are pesticide free and skin products that will make body want to sing fill this store. Halelulia, Paris is going healthy!

This store promotes "les ingredients de la vie" (ingredients for life) and they truly have it. Many products are from fair trade vendors and everything is only made with whole products, no crazy additives that you can't pronounce here. It might be a little more expensive than a regular grocery store, but who cares...You are WORTH it! Just look for the familiar beige on brown sign and enter into delicious and healthy goodness.

For more information, please visit http://www.naturalia.fr/ (sorry it is only in French) or just check out one of the many stores

Thank you for reading and bonne journée.

The Sounds from Sainte Chappelle

2010-04-27T22:36:00.000-07:00

One of the great things about Paris is that you can see and hear classical music being performed in many of the churches. What could be better than hearing music that speaks to your soul, while surrounded by a beautiful, not to mention historical site? It is a great way to spend an evening! Some of the concerts held on the weekends are even free too. You can check out the ubiquitous FUSAC Magazine located in the metro stations, book stores and any number of free stands out there to see where the current concerts are being held.

That being said, there is one venue you should not miss while you are visiting. Sainte Chappelle, the 13th century chapel, built by King Louis IX, is a resplendent jewel meant to celebrate both royalty as well as The Church. It's original stained glass windows capture one's attention with its blues and reds lining the intimate space. The glass celebrates the stories of the Bible and are lined with the royal insignia of the fleur-de-lys.

When I was there I had the opportunity to hear Les Quatres Saisons, better known to us as The Four Seasons. I was so moved, I actually got a little "verklempt". The performance certainly stirred my soul as I watched the soloist literally shred part of his bow from the intensity of his playing. Not to worry, it did not effect his performance one bit. It was simply a piece of Heaven.

As I watched the performance I could almost feel the presence of the many King Louis' and their Queen consorts resting their royal behinds behind the musicians looking out upon their subjects. While a Louis may not be seated on the throne anymore, it was fun to imagine days long gone and how it must have looked. While our modern dress may not compare to the days of old, I was certainly grateful for the show and its surroundings.

Typically, the chapel hosts two evening performances at 7pm and again at 8:30. Tickets can be bought online for a fee from outside sources or you can purchase them directly at the chapel between the hours of 10am - 5pm. Prices are 24€ and 30€. While it is an intimate setting, if it is in your budget I do recommend spending the extra 6€ to buy the front seats. It is worth every centime.

It is located at 4 Blvd. du Palais in the beautifully maintained Palais de Justice. Be prepared to not bring any metal items as you will be going through a metal detector to get in. It is the Hall of Justice after all.

For more information, please visit their site at http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/

Thank you for reading an bonne journée!

FLOWER GIRL

2010-04-21T08:10:00.000-07:00

If you have either never been or if it has been awhile since you last visited Le Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, now is the time to go back. My goodness, the flowers in bloom! Horticulture may be just another one of the French's special talents.

When entering the park at the Rue Soufflot entrance you will be greeted by several different statues, each surrounded by a ubiquitous amount of flowers, specially designed for the statue. I am telling you, it is a floral admirers delight!

You next reach the large watering hole where kids and adults who want to remember their childhood can rent an impressive toy sailboat that can be pushed out into the open with a stick. 2€ for a half-hour and 3,50€ for one hour to bring out the little kiddie in you.

If boats don't strike your fancy, there are quite a few things for the kids to do: a playground, swingset, pony rides, ferris wheel and the famous puppet shows each afternoon. Everything costs a few euros. So, make sure to bring some cash with you or your kids might just get a little antsy.

If you didn't bring the kids, sit around the watering hole on one of the many chairs and enjoy the sun or hang out on the many benches under the glorious trees that align the outer edges of the park. Believe me, it will be easy to spark a little romance here. The French don't mind public displays of affection. C'est trés normal here. So, go ahead and do a little making out while you are here.

The Palais du Luxembourg is an impressive building that overlooks the many acres. The Senate works here and one can only marvel that they have such a grand view.

Do make sure to take a day trip here. Pack a lunch and your wallets. You will be happy you did.

Note: even though there are not any signs, it is "forbidden" to walk across the grass. And yes, the police will not only approach you if you break the rules; they will whistle, waving their arms through the air complaining that you are making a huge mistake against the king and country...ok, maybe not king, maybe state and country. So, keep it in mind and stay off the grass.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée !

Les Faux Pas

2010-04-11T05:21:00.000-07:00

In every language idiomatic phrases abound, which do not translate word for word into another person's language. If you say to a foreigner "What's up?" They will look up, not realizing you are asking them how they are. While living abroad, I at least make the attempt to speak to the Natives, but it doesn't always work out the way I would like. I have made a few interesting mistakes with my French over the last year and half and I thought I would take you on a stroll down my memory lane in order to learn from my mistakes.

One evening after arriving here I was told that I had a lot of hair on the back of my shirt. I tried to respond with a little humor, but it didn't quite work. What I said was, "Je suis une chienne." What I meant was, "I am a dog." What I really said was, "I am a bitch." So, when I was told about my mistake I changed it to "D'accord, je suis une chatte." What I meant was, "Ok then, I am a cat." What I really said was, "OK, I am a pussy," (and not the feline kind...double oops!)

Down the road, my French began to improve, but only slowly. I tried telling someone that I was joking by saying "J'éte blague." That didn't work at all except for the fact that I got a few howls for weeks on that one. It doesn't really mean anything, but as I learned it is certainly not proper French. Even though blague means joke, I should have said "Je plaisantais." Voila, now I know.

In French they say, I "have" cold instead of I "am" cold. Unfortunately, I forgot that little fact once and in doing so I inadvertantly said I was frigid. I learned then too that if I had said I "am" hot as opposed to I "have" heat then I would have been telling the person that I was hot to trot down the road of love (or at least lust).

Then there was Easter. Here in France instead of the Bunny, they have an Easter Bell. When I told two ten-year-olds that the Bell hid some candy for them they matter-of-factly replied that they no longer believed in the Bell and refused to look for the candy. When I told them I was the Bell (all in French remember, which by the way is "je suis le cloche") I was told that I had just informed the children that I am stupid. Ah well, c'est la vie. At least the kids started looking for the candy.

In the memoir Almost French, by Sarah Turnbull, she shared how when she started learning French she asked her man if he wanted "a" pipe instead of "his" pipe. In doing so, she had asked if he wanted a blow job...I failed to mention that she asked him this at a dinner party they were hosting with his friends. Hey, expat sister, I feel your pain.

So, here is the rule of thumb, just don't take yourself too seriously when you make a mistake. At least you will learn not to repeat it again and in the meantime you can have a good laugh.

Thanks for reading and happy talking!

Allergies, Asthma and the Pharmacy

2010-04-07T03:11:00.000-07:00

You marvel at the sights and sounds the City of Light has to offer. The Eifel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame, not to mention the plethora of cafes all capture your attention. You plan your day accordingly with what you want to do next while you are here. You are dripping with enthusiasm, but unfortunately your nose is dripping from the cold you acquired along the way. That's ok. There are pharmacies practically on every street corner. You will recognize them from blocks away due to their green cross flashing different designs at you.

So, with the ubiquitous amount of pharmacies out there, you inevitably think you can run into one of them and pick up some Nyquil (or Dayquil for the daytime), but oh no, they do not carry that here! What will you do? Your French isn't on par enough to tell the pharmacist that you have a cold (which by the way is rhume).

You can pretend to sneeze and maybe he will get it. But after hearing a story how a Portugese woman told a French doctor what was wrong with her in her language, he misinterpreted the meaning and prescribed medicine for constipation when she wanted medicine for a cold. I think that it's best to either carry a dictionary with you or just know that Fervex is the answer to cold symptoms. If you don't read French you take one packet and pour it into hot water and drink up, but only take it at night as it promotes drowsiness. You don't want to fall asleep and miss all the Parisian action after taking it. I took some just last night and most of my cold symptoms from yesterday have moved through its course. Yahoo!

So, that answers that, but what about skin allergies? I have been here awhile and long since ran out of my lotions, creams and soaps that work for my sensitive dry skin. Soaps are a no-no for people like me with chronic dermatidis and exzyma. With products from home I know exactly what to buy. Noone ever guesses that I have skin problems. But being abroad it has been about trial and error for me trying to figure out what works and what doesn't. Marseilles gels and laits (milk cleansers) can easily be found in the supermarchés and are inexpensive. While I can't use them on my face, they work well for the body and they have an array of nice scents too.

For washing the face, that is a different story. What works for me is Lipikar Surgras Douche-Creme Concentree Anti-Dessechment by La Roche-Posay. Whew, that was a long one. It can be found at the parapharmacies that I talk about below.

As for lotions, I tried every lotion from the grocery store here only to find I was allergic to them all. I became so desperate, I had a friend who was visiting the U.S. pick up 2 large bottles of my lotion while she was there. Poor girl had to carry her heavy suitcase filled with all the stuff I had her buy for me.

I then ran out of my Progres eye cream that I have used for the last 20 years. Unfortunately, Lancome doesn't make the product anymore and I am allergic to all their other eye creams. I tried practically everything I could, but my eyes reacted badly to them all. Waking up every day with swollen eyelids that would eventually go down from putting a cold damp cloth on them for several hours, only left severe wrinkling and flakiness I normally do not have.

After six weeks of this hell, I then discovered the Parapharmacie. When the word Para is thrown into the front of pharmacie, it essentially means the store is bigger and has topical products. This is the place to shop for your skin care. Vichy is a fabulous brand that works for me. You may have to spend more, but who cares, your face will be happy you did! After using my Vichy cream around my eyes, the swelling and wrinkling went away almost immediately and my skin is back to its youthful look. THANK YOU VICHY!

For you asthma patients, you will need a prescription to replace your order. Doctors here are generally only 22€ if you do not carry French insurance. The meds will be different, but I think they are on par with what we have at home.

So, the moral of the story is to not worry. No need to spend hundreds of dollars shipping a bottle of lotion over from the States or having friends do your shopping for you while at home. You will find things here eventually. You just may have to do a little work to get there. But that is ok, Paris is worth the effort!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Please note I am not a physician. These are just some things that have worked for me. Please consult your physician before trying any of the products listed above.

The Labyrinth

2010-03-27T00:44:00.000-07:00

While I normally do not post my spiritual articles on this blog, since it is about the labyrinth at Chartres, I included it here. If spirituality is not your thing, then exercise your freedom of choice and read the next article about Sex & The City.

While I meditate daily, I couldn’t figure out what was compelling me to try a walking meditation on the labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral in France. But, ever since I found out about the maze, I have felt like the Universe was pulling me towards it. Why, I did not know. Was it going to be relaxing? Was I going to have a mystical experience? Or would I find the whole thing to be a bit silly? I would have to give it a whirl myself to find out.

I arrived early in the morning and was surprised to see the maze was actually crowded. I began my journey somewhere in the middle, trying to bypass incoming traffic. For the first thirty seconds or so, I was leaning on the side that this thing was just a silly pastime, but then my viewpoint rapidly started to change.

Almost immediately, I realized that I had to be mindful of the path I was taking. It was rather small and if I did not pay attention, I may step out of its boundaries. I thought about this metaphorically speaking how life is not supposed to be about achieving the goals we set, but rather the road we take to reach them. Nothing is important, but this moment we are in right now. Every time I make a move, whether seemingly good or bad, it is taking me where I want to go and I am learning along the way. It is all good. We just have to learn to break down the barriers that hinder our perceptions from seeing things in a positive light.

From time to time, I would briefly look up to see the entire labyrinth. Once again I was moved to visualize the lines on the floor in a greater context. It occurred to me that the labyrinth symbolically represented the Universe. It made me think how as an intuitive, I can often see the past, present or future with moments of deep understanding. Unfortunately, sometimes intuitives have a mightier than thou complex, thinking that what they see is always 100% accurate. I always teach that intuition is clouded by our own perceptions and it should be used a guide not as a definitive rule book.

Furthermore, in the grand scheme of things this sense of clarity that we often feel is simply a mere glimpse into the span of eternity. As I continued my mindful walk somewhere along the labyrinth’s path, I understood clearly how we are all given glimpses into the vast information the Universe has to offer, but for the most part we have to look directly at the moment we are in. Whether seeing near or far, it all can be celebrated. Being aware of where my feet were going was teaching me this.

I began paying attention to the nooks and crannies dug out on the floor from nearly a millennium of wear and tear. They formed many shapes that I could distinguish and it became a game for me. I looked upon a genie’s lamp, so I made a wish. I noticed a map of The United States and wondered if I were from Spain if I would have seen that country instead. The Statue of Liberty graced her presence and I though how we can all choose to be free if we want to. I saw several animals and was grateful that we share our existence with such noble creatures.

The crowds were still there and I noticed the sound from the beat of my footsteps matched the woman directly in front of me. While I started out on my own path, without realizing it, I began mimicking hers. That would not do.

Jody Foster said it best, "Normal is nothing to aspire to. It's something to get away from." I did not, nor do I ever wish to succumb to the status quo. I want to express my uniqueness. So, I did the only thing I could do in that moment. I changed the pattern of my footsteps. The sounds being made were now mismatched from hers. It was like a symphony off key, but I didn’t care. I was creating my own music.

I soon made it to the center for the first time and the circle was surrounded by the crowd that had just finished. No one ventured inside. Were they afraid? For me, the circle represented The Creator. I wondered if these people saw it in the same way and somehow thought they were separate from the Divine Force. I knew otherwise and I made my move, celebrating my Unity with the Divine.

I felt extreme joy. I faced the stained glassed window in the back of the room. For about two seconds I battled with my ego whether or not I should remain quiet as the others were or should I express the rapture I was feeling. I laughed that I even doubted myself for a moment and did what I needed to do. I raised my arms in the air above my head as high as they could go and wiggled my fingers. With a smile on my face I created a made up sound, something between YES and BooYah. I had made it here and I wanted to share my enthusiasm.

The others surrounding me were not amused. Who was this strange woman and her strange ways they wondered. But I did not falter. I stayed my ground and did what I needed to do to create my personal reality. If the others chose to not see pure joy as part of God’s work, so be it. This was about me, not them.

Just because I made it to the center, I was not done yet. I walked the labyrinth many times over the next couple of hours. Each time I started in a new place; from the middle, the end, and the beginning. Why not, it’s my own journey. Human beings have created this sense of linear time where we have to move from A to B. The reality is we are Spirit Beings and can move from A to D and back to C if we so choose. Why not start at the end and work your way back? Seeing things from a fresh perspective is always a good thing.

The others that were in the room were experiencing their own journey. One women wearing sweats was on a mission to exercise on her path, racing past each of the other participants. One person held out her palms as she walked. Another stood in meditation for a half an hour just outside the center. There were a group of Germans sitting along the sidelines being told about the history of the maze by a tour guide.

The kids were more playful in their approach. They paid attention to what they were doing, but they didn’t object to moving out of the way when the adults walked in the opposite direction. Laughing all the way, it was simply about fun for them.

At one point there was a group that walked right through the middle of the design to get to the other side, completely unaware of its existence. By this time, there were only three of us in the circle. The woman standing in meditation with her eyes closed did not notice a thing. There was another woman besides myself with her arms outstretched. She became visibly annoyed with the audacity of the others for not paying attention to her space. In her eyes they were doing it “wrong”.

I, on the other hand, had been smiling on my entire sojourn. I enjoyed noting everyone’s different approaches. There are seven billion ways to express our realities and they are all perfect. No one is ever wrong. Even when we are oblivious to the fact that we are on the path to Enlightenment we are still learning along the way. Moreover, when we have reached some level of Spiritual Awareness where we undertake things such as a walking meditation, but still cannot see the beauty in individuality, it doesn’t matter. We are working our way up to seeing the Light. Each of us is on varying levels of the same path and it is all good.

Afterwards, a white haired elderly woman in a red blazer moved in the opposite direction from me. She contemplated her path as she moved along, but abruptly halted each time I approached her. Her sternness could be read on her face. She clasped her hands in prayer almost as though they were fists. She would never budge. I smiled and moved to the side each and every time.

As I ran into another woman we smiled at each other as we both moved off course to allow the other to move through. I realized then that there are hiccups in life. Nothing ever moves as smoothly as we would like them to¸ but so what. Sometimes we have to get out of life’s way and let it happen. Why not see life from the adventure that it is, smiling at our co-conspirators as we move along. There is no problem getting off course for a moment or two. We can quickly get back on when we choose to.

I tried different things on my excursion. Some people were teetering on both feet before taking the next step. I tried it. In Sangha Buddhism one breathes in with the left step and breathes out with the right. I tried it too. I walked fast. I walked slowly. Each time I entered the center I did it differently. All the while I repeated in my mind, “I love this labyrinth! I love this labyrinth!” What I was really saying was, “I love my life! I love my life!”…and the great thing is, I do.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Please note: The labyrinth is available only on Fridays as it is covered with chairs for the church on all other days.

Sex & the City

2010-02-20T21:06:00.000-08:00

As an American woman, I find I have always taken for granted how easily it is to talk about one subject or another with other women. We girls can talk about anything from our innermost feelings to sexual positions with our men without batting an eye. On the other hand, I have read repeatedly from books written by other expats that this sort of freedom of speech is a big fat no-no among French women, even for those who have been friends for years. Domage! (Too bad!)

Even one of my French clients shudders if I ask him if he has a date in the evening...and he is a man. I mean from my perspective what is the big deal? The good news is it looks like things might be changing, even if just a bit.

The other night I was standing in the kitchen chatting with a friend and we were rambling on a little about this and a little about that when it finally happened, the sex talk was brought up. Tintilating talk and a few laughs later, I realized I hadn't had much of this kind of conversation since I had been here. It seemed so natural to me, but then I realized who I was talking to...a French woman!

So, I decided to ask, "It's my understanding that this sort of conversation is taboo amongst French women; even for those who have known each other for years. N'est pas?"

"Yes, that is true, but things are changing. And do you know why?"

As soon as she asked, I knew the answer. I blurted out, "Sex & the City!"

"Oui, bien sur!"

Wow, who knew a television show could have such an impact on an entire culture! Well, I say kudos to the show and kudos to the French who have decided being more open is actually fun. C'est très bien!

So for you expats, you still may want to check the private subjects at the door when talking to a French person, but who knows, maybe in the course of the evening you will be able to bring them out to play after all.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée.

THE GAME IS A-FOOT

2010-01-25T02:25:00.000-08:00

The game is a-foot...football that is. For those Americans not in the know, to the rest of the planet, football means soccer. Soccer may not be the sport of choice within our borders, but leap anywhere outside and you will see children playing in the streets with their soccer balls in tow while adults scream cheers or jeers at television screens in various languages around the world.

Sure movies like Bend it Like Beckham and its namesake David Beckham himself along with former Spice Girl wife, Victoria, may have brought to the U.S. a little glam to the sport, but even the good looks of this hip couple can not spring forward the intensity that soccer fans everywhere else have.

One might think, what is she talking about? We have our own football and we are fans of our teams! Yes, we may have American football and given a good Monday night game or most especially when the Super Bowl rolls around, fans can be found at BBQs and bars around the country cheering for their favorite team, but our fans do not hold a candle to the "fan"atic behavior that soccer conjures up on all other continents.

I remember the first time I traveled to Europe. After my university days were over, I decided to embark on the mandatory backpacking tour of each country with my then boyfriend. We happened to be here during the World Cup. I didn't know what the World Cup was at the time, but I quickly learned it was the biggest tournament in the world. As we traveled through each country I found that entire countries were rooting for a team. I mean as a Bay Arean, us locals root for the 49ers or the Raiders, but here it's everyone everywhere following their national team.

And boy is this game taken seriously. While leaving Italy on that first trip, the train was suddenly silent for the rest of the journey. Radios in every car announced that the Italians had just lost. I don't know about you, but it is my experience that Italians are the most expressive people in the universe. So, to hear the sound of silence there of all places was quite an oddity.

I then found myself in Germany during the final round and guess what? The Germans won. I would like to think it was our presence that gave the Germans the good luck card, but don't tell them I said that. Singing and general partying in the streets until the wee hours of the night was a requirement, even to us Americans who had just seen our first game and had no idea why it was so fascinating to everyone else. At least the partying was a good time.

Fast forward to last night, some cup or another was being fed to local Parisian TVs. It wasn't the World Cup, but maybe the African Cup. The game was clearly over at 11pm. I knew this because at exactly that time fans began their cheering and horn honking for the rest of the night. Nearly 19 years have passed since my first soccer experience. Then I was completely game to party along side the fans. These days, however, all I could think about was "Don't these people have kids or at least jobs? I need my sleep!"

After an hour of listening to screams outside my window, I decided to either get used to it or put some plugs in my ears. Soccer is here (or should I say "hear") to stay.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

IT'S TEA TIME!

2010-01-17T23:39:00.000-08:00

If you are walking through the streets of Paris during the cold months of winter, you will want to take a break to get warm. If you happen to be visiting the column in the heart of the Bastille, why not saunter off a few blocks to toast your tootsies with a cup of tea. Le Bar a The will tempt your palette with an array of herbal concoctions from around the world. Choose from a seemingly never-ending assorted menu of teas and infusions (decaffeinated herbal teas) this cafe has to offer.

On my last excursion, I chose a sweet infusion called Zen Family. The server informed me that the tea needed to steep for ten minutes before consuming. Well, I can honestly say the tea was worth the wait. I enjoyed it so much, after finishing the last drop, I asked her to boil more water for me so I could savor the tea a little longer.

While this cafe's primary function is to serve tea, it also can alleviate any growlings your stomach may make. A refrigerated section contains pre-made sandwiches and the like. So, don't despair, your tummy can be filled up with something more than liquid yumminess.

I took my two hour sojourn during January when it was too cold to eat (or drink) at the outdoor tables. Not to worry, the ambience indoors is as impressive as the tea. Comfortable chairs and dark wooden tables with artwork highlighting the walls is reminiscent of any cafe in my San Francisco hometown. This place could have been swooped right out of Fillmore Street and plopped here in France.

The service, like anywhere in Paris, is a little hit or miss. The first time I tested the waters, the server was kind and generous with her time. On the second visit, a different waitress practically threw the tea on the table. Maybe she didn't like my garbled up Americanized French? I could have taken the revenge road, screaming profanities in English (or French for that matter) to her, but I have learned the high road is a whole lot brighter. What is best in these cases is to become superwoman (or superman) in the nice department. Eventually, the meanies will turn their stone faces into smiles, even if it takes a few times.

If you are tired of the same old coffee joints, give Le Bar a The a whirl. Your taste buds will be happy you did.

Le Bar a The
9 rue Antoine Vollon
12eme
Metro: Ledru Rollin, line 8

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

Les Toilettes

2010-01-05T02:41:00.000-08:00

When I came to Europe for the first time twenty years ago, I was forewarned about having to bring my own toilet paper when using public restrooms and that the public restrooms may consist solely of a hole in the floor that you simply had to straddle, doing your very best not to splatter all over yourself. I visited many restrooms in many restaurants and cafes that fit this description to a tea. Fortunately, the facilities have done some improving over the course of the last couple of decades. I still may run into a forlorn hole in the floor on occasion, but it is more a rarity then the norm.

That being said the toilets here are, simply put, wierd. Don't get me wrong, I am grateful for indoor plumbing, but coming from the U.S. my perception of how things "should" be is skewed by my cultural upbringing.

So, what's so different about the toilets here? Well they all have a different way of flushing. Some toilets are like our w.c.'s of a 100 years ago with a chain that you must pull down. Some may have something on the lid that you have to pull up. But more commonly, they have flushing-buttons which are either on the top lid of the toilet or in public restrooms they may be on the wall. There are usually two choices to make. A big button, perhaps in the shape of a large crescent moon and another one in a smaller crescent shaped moon. The big button is for "big" needs and the little button is for smaller needs.

That's all well and good. Save the environment and all that, but that little button gives me a headache. I push it down in order for the toilet to suck up the few pieces of toilet paper and it can not handle that much work. Oh, you can press it several times, without much luck. Or you can hold it down, wasting just as much water that you would have had you used the big button...mon Dieu!

A few weeks ago, while washing my hands in a public restroom a family of Australians queued up in line and were perplexed. They weren't sure how to open the door. In this establishment along with many others in Paris, there is a fee of 50 centimes to open the door. Some places will actually give you a blank coin to use, but you need to be 'in the know' to ask for one. After explaining this, they got their coin and were able to take care of their business. I saved their day...or at least that moment. Just call me Superwoman.

On another occasion, last summer, I had been walking the streets of Paris, consuming bottled water along the way to quench my thirst from the heat. Well, water doing what it does needed to come out. I scouted out the first cafe available and explained my predicament to the woman. She emphatically expressed, "Ce n'est pas possible!" (It is not possible!) She told me I had to buy a coffee in order to not explode. I turned to the bartender and handed him a 5 and asked him to not make me a coffee as I detested coffee. This action nearly caused World War III. They would not permit me to get away with that either. I had to buy and take something. Luckily, I discovered they sold bottled water. Evian to the rescue! Thankfully, I never have this problem with male servers. So, I have taken a mental note, when in shear desperation, bat my eyelashes and ask a man.

Now, if you decide to live in Paris, just a word about cleanliness. Toilet bowls are shaped differently here and many of them need to be cleaned after each use. No further description will be given here, just remember to have a toilet bowl brush nearby at all times.

Also you should keep in mind, there are those higher-end public restrooms that will actually have someone posted in the restroom for your convenience. What that convenience is I am not exactly sure, but hey when in Rome do as the Romans do and when in Paris...Well, you get the point. You will be expected to pay them a fee and maybe a tip. The fees range from 50 centimes on up to maybe 5 euros. At least the restrooms you have to pay a pretty sum for are usually clean. The 50 centime joints, like at the train stations, not so much. Just pay the fee, plug your nose and squat!

Another thing that might be a bit shocking is that quite often men and women share restrooms. Men will be standing at the urinal, doing there thing while you wait in line for an available toilet. The French don't give it a second thought. I am still at the point where I am giving it a second thought and admittedly I may have sneaked a peak or two...Shh, don't tell anyone!

All this talk about toilets, and I haven't even gotten to the bidets yet. Well, I will let you figure that one out on your own. The good news is, gone are the days of me having to lug my own toilet paper around as I visit the sites. Hail to Les Toilettes!

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

THE FIRST NOEL

2009-12-12T09:44:00.000-08:00

It's my first Christmas in Paris. Chestnuts are roasting on an open fire...Ok, maybe not an open fire. More like chestnuts roasting on a silver aluminum platter resting over hot coals in a metal garbage can, but who cares? The chestnuts are still warm and roasted. And they are certainly everywhere, especially at the metro entrances. Nat King Cole would be thrilled.

And what does the City of Light have to offer in the light department? Let's just say, A LOT! Ok, if you are in the primarily Muslim area of the 10th you are not going to find too much in the way of holiday lighting, but walk down the Champs-Elysees during this time of year and you will get a big dose of Christmas. Every tree aligning the street has streams of blueish-white lights running down the branches. Many of the shops have lights outside on the buildings, as well. I was trying to determine if I liked it or if it was too gauche. I decided to lean on the side of liking it. If they put up just one more light, however, it would look like Las Vegas.

While in the U.S., avid light stringers align doors, windows and rooftops with flickering lights. Here in Paris, strands of lights are hung either vertically or in lace-like designs covering windows and even walls. It's as though banners of strung lights are hanging from the rooftops of both private residences and many public buildings. Check out l'Hotel de Ville (city hall) and the le Marie de Paris (mayor's office of Paris: please note that each arrondissement has their own mayor too, but I am talking about THE mayor of Paris here). Two words: "simply lovely."

Notre Dame gets into the Christmas game, as well. Of course, Christmas IS their game. Blue ornaments highlight the beautifully lit tree in the Plaza. Inside the church the creche, of course, has special significance. This is not like the table top creche you have at home. This one would surely take up one of your small rooms. Unfortunately, when I was there the baby Jesus was missing. Mary, Joseph and all the rest looked adoringly at an empty crib. Where was Jesus? Was he stolen? No, it turns out that they don't put the baby Jesus out until December 25th, since that was the date of his birth. So, don't get discouraged if you are seeing loads of creches minus the most important element. He will show up in just a few days!

While at Notre Dame make sure to check out some of their musical programs. The choir of Vespers and the organ concerts bring to life the holiday season all the more. Go to www.notredamedeparis.fr for more details.

While you are in Paris during the month of December, take a walk, get lost and see what you find. Various streets have themed holiday lighting and decor. There is plenty to see and who knows, maybe you will run into a caroler or two.

Thank you for reading and Joyeux Noel!

The English are Coming!

2009-12-11T01:12:00.000-08:00

You’ve been in Paris for weeks and the one thing you miss is going to the theater. You long to see one of the many plays in town, but your French isn’t exactly up to par. Sitting in a room for two hours listening to actors in a language you don’t understand isn’t what you had in mind. You long for the days of English theater, but you are at a loss at what to do. Don’t despair. You can still get your theater fix at Le Pavé d’Orsay on the second Thursday of every month…in English!

Don’t expect a full production with sets, however. What you will get are professional actors doing a reading of a classic play. Très magnifique!

Last night I saw A Long Day's Journey into Night by Eugene O'Neill. Yes, the actors were reading their parts, but these people are professionals. They are still performing. Think back to the day when our grandparents only had radio. Actors carried their performances with their voices. Here we get the added bonus of seeing what the actor’s look like too.

There is no admission fee, though donations are gladly accepted. Wine, non-alcoholic beverages and light fare are available during the intermission.

Located just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Musee d’Orsay at 48, rue de Lille in the 7th arrondissement. Shows are generally from 7:30-9:30, with a discussion afterwards. Last night’s play was over three hours, so they changed the time to accommodate the length. Check their website for details at http://lepavedorsay.blogspot.com/. Use Google Translate to change the page into English.

And one more thing to note, Le Pavé is an art gallery. You may just be lucky enough to enjoy looking at a few contemporary pieces while you are there. Theater and art…who could ask for anything more?!

Thank you for reading and bon journée!

STRIKE 1, STRIKE 2, STRIKE 5,987,432...YOU'RE OUT!

2009-12-01T00:57:00.001-08:00

On any given day, one is bound to find some group of Parisians striking or marching against the government. The French take the act of striking to a whole new level. In the U.S. when Major League baseball players went on strike in the mid-90's it almost cost them the game. If players didn't want to play and support their fans interest, then so be it, we would no longer support them when they came back. It took much canoodling on the League's part to get people to come back to the game. In France, on the other hand, going on strike IS a national sport. It's almost as though each union is racing against the clock to accumulate as many strike days as possible. And the French put up with it. C'est la vie.

After being here for nearly a year, I have decided to make light of how many strikes there are here, that is until now. My God, the museums are on strike! Now my 'upset' barometer just went off. I mean what will they do next? I think the only thing worse could be turning off all the public restrooms. Perhaps I should not have mentioned it either, because maybe they will do it!

First the Pompidou and some smaller museums leaped for the opportunity to go on strike last week and now the Louvre may join in on the quest for truth, justice and the French way, starting tomorrow, December 2nd. Yikes, there goes my free Sunday, not to mention how many hundreds of thousands of euros to all the tourist venues, including the museum itself. Strikes don't just affect the employees of the strike, it affects the restaurants, the souvenier shops and other local businesses. Since tourism is a major contributor the city's economy, shutting down public venues like this really hurts everyone's pocketbooks.

Yes, the museum's workers have their reasons. Apparently, management only wants to offer half the people retirement. I get it, people are mad. Blah blah blah. But seriously folks how much anger is there in Paris to have so many greves (strikes)?

I am sure that management will inevitably give in to the employees demands. They seem to always have to. In the meantime, make sure to check the latest scoop online to see if your museum of choice is closed.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

OY VAY!

2009-11-27T00:29:00.000-08:00

You haven't really visited Paris if you haven't taken a sojourn through its wonderful nooks and crannies. Rue de Rosiers is one of those spots. Embedded in the heart of the 4th arrondissement, or Le Marais, this little piece of Israel is a must see.

From the small shops where window's display Menorahs and various other forms of Judaica to men in yamakas or even the full traditional garb of the Hasidics, you will be surrounded by a big dose of Jewish spirituality.

And if religion isn't your thing, not to worry, there are plenty of delicious kosher restaurants here. Authentic delicatessens, not to mention the ubiquitous falafel joints which are practically screaming at you to eat there. And why not? They are worth the small price of a long wait and a low fee. 5-7 euors is a typical price for a falafel sandwich.

Just a note that some of these places have men outside taking your money in advance. No need to panic that it might be a scam. It's just how they do it here. You pay the guy, he hands you a ticket with your order and then you give it to the person in the window. Your meal will be made to order in just a few minutes.

The falafel places take fast-food dining to a whole new level. Who needs McDonald's when you can eat fresh veggies, sauteed eggplant and yummy falafel wrapped in a pita bread and made right in front of you! Your eyes and more importantly your stomach will surely be tantalized by all the goodies!

My personal favorite is Chez Hanna, a small hole in the wall near the end of the street. It's red exterior calls to pedestrians walking by. With it's painted declaration that it has "the best falafels in the world," they probably are not too far off from the truth.

Order at the window a emporter (to go) or get lucky enough to sit inside at one of the tables. For the best availability for a table, arrive promptly at noon during the week when the restaurant opens.

If you have a hankering for a bit of kosher food or need a dose of spirituality, this charming street and area surrounding it won't want to be missed.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

Chez Hannah is located at 54 rue de Rosiers.

C'est La Vie

2009-11-12T06:24:00.000-08:00

The other day I waited in line at the supermarché and the line was growing exponentially. The one and only cashier called for backup. The new cashier, who was supposedly coming to our rescue, ambled to her post as though she were on a Sunday stroll in the Tuilleries. Before opening the register, she grabbed some plastic grocery bags and as the line was growing ever more rapidly she separated a few of them from the larger pile...one at a time...and as slowly as humanly possible. She said her bonjour's to the other cashier, discussing the important matters of the day. Then looked underneath her register, perhaps to make sure her garbage can was there. Five minutes later the new cash register was open for business. Mon Dieu!

To top it all off, after waiting in this line without an apology or even a simple hello, the cashier waited rather impatiently for me to bag my groceries before serving the next customer. You see, in France, the employees do not take care of the bagging. "What, you want moi to actually do some work? Ce n'est pas possible!" No, they sit comfortably in their chairs (yes, chairs are provided for them here) and you, the paying client, must bag your own sacks.

As the scenario was taking place, I had visions of being allowed to work in a retail store in France just for a week, so they could see a customer service goddess in action. During my college years, I managed different shops and could not only ring up people faster than the scanner could, I could actually ring up two people at a time on two different registers (the thing is, I am not exaggerating!) I greeted all customers with a familiar smile and chatted with them about their daily lives. We were friends after all and besides, the customer is always right...not so in France. The customer is rarely right and how dare they speak up and ruin a worker's day anyway?

Then this morning, as my own story was stirring in my head, I picked up Stephen Clarke's book, Talk to the Snail, where the author shares in the very first chapter similar mishaps with French customer service. You mean he noticed it too?

Meanwhile at home, my roommate wondered if the internet was now working. We received all the equipment, but were waiting for France Telecom to turn on the phone line. My roomie fervently continued to check to see if it was turned on. "It's a holiday today," I said. "I assure you it won't be turned on today." His repsonse? "But it's just a matter a flipping a switch. We have already waited a week!"

I then tried to explain the French work ethic. I knew of someone who didn't have their internet working for months. Each month they racked up bills that they paid, but always had to leave their home to check their emails! In addition, you have to actually pay (by the minute no less) to talk to customer service. They spent over 100 euros speaking to someone in Africa who couldn't help them. When I asked why they just didn't switch providers, the French person told me it was because their provider was the best, bien sûr (of course). How could I have been so foolish?

I then told him I had once scheduled appointment with a Darty repairman to install a part in the refrigerator. He was to arrive on Tuesday between 10 and 2. I waited...and waited...and waited some more. He finally showed up…six days later! No phone calls. No explanation. He was just suddenly there. C'est normal!

If you are a tourist, you hopefully will be so enthralled with being in Paris you won't even notice the lack of service. If you are a resident expat, well, what can I say? We must take the good with the bad. Try not to have a lot of expectations with the customer service in this country (because essentially, it does not exist). If you just move about your life with a smile and not let this cultural idiosyncrasy get to you, life will be grand in this beautiful city.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

PS. If you are an expat, you already know what I mean...If you are French, I sincerely apologize. I truly do love your country!

Armistice Day

2009-11-10T04:36:00.000-08:00

November 11th marks another French holiday on the calendar. This time Armistice Day, or Armistice de la Première Guerre Mondiale, which signifies a more solemn occasion. Those who were killed or injured during the first World War as well as those from other wars are honored on this day. Traditionally, the sitting president will lay a wreath of flowers at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Arc de Triomphe.

While this isn't a holiday of a whole lot of partying, please take note that the post offices and most stores will be closed tomorrow.

Perhaps on your visit through the streets of Paris, maybe you too can remember that many people have lost their lives in countless wars throughout history. Perhaps we can send out a simple thought of Peace on this day.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee.

REIKI CLASSES & SESSIONS - 20% off through November 23rd...

2009-11-06T01:37:00.001-08:00

For all you REIKI enthusiasts who are either visiting or living in Paris, you can have your REIKI "fix" while you are here!

I am an American REIKI master and I not only give sessions, I teach classes so that you can learn to do it yourself. Each level is just a one day course and after the attunement process you are forever able to give REIKI...including to yourself!

In addition, I have a free studio to hold classes and sessions through November 23rd. So, I have decided to pass on the savings to you. Yipee! I am offering 20% off for ALL REIKI services through this date. So, you can save your pocketbook a few bucks too.

To learn more, please visit my site at www.serenitylifestyle.com. I hold classes both open to the public and privately held around your schedule. So, there is always room for you!

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

THE BEAUTIFUL PRINCESS

2009-10-22T22:23:00.000-07:00

What could be more exciting for the art world than to discover a new painting by Leonardo DaVinci? Sold a few years ago for a mere $19,000.00, the new owner had an inkling this painting was not a 19th century German piece as originally thought, but indeed a work by the great Renaissance master himself. A multispectral infra-red camera in France substantiated his hypothesis was correct.

A 500 year old fingerprint of DaVinci left on the canvas, matching the fingerprint on another masterpiece was confirmed by French analysts. Not to mention other details such as the fact it was painted by a left-handed artist as Leonardo was known to be. In addition, carbon dating done by the English confirmed the work to be authentic.

New York art dealer, Peter Silverman, can be thanked for his arduous journey to prove the new discovery. La Bella Principessa, or The Beautiful Princess, is now thought to be the portrait of Bianca Sforza, daughter of Ludovico Sforza, part of the powerful ruling dynasty in the Milan duchy during the late 15th century and early 16th centuries.

The painting, now worth an estimated $150 million is quite a few pennies profit for Silverman. And who knows, maybe Dan Brown will write another story of intrigue behind another DaVinci work.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee.

DARK CLOUD OVER THE METRO

2009-10-19T10:08:00.000-07:00

For the last several weeks, many expat friends and acquaintances have mentioned to me how the people in the Metro live in their own little world, making little or no contact with anyone else. Faces are empty of all expression except for the frowns that might be plastered on a few faces. The expats in turn decide it is in their best interest to copy the locals and block others from entering their energetic space, as well. Eyes undoubtedly move down to the floor and the cycle is continued.

Hearing this, I am compelled to put in my two cents worth. If someone jumps off the Eifel Tower are you going to follow them by doing the same? Of course not. So, why do so many of us feel it is necessary to be like everyone else? Instead of being a sheep following the next guy in front of us, why not take the course of the shephard and be a leader. Make a stance for change. Exude happiness.

"I smile while on the Metro," I tell the disillusioned expats. "Why?" is the inevitable response. "It is my mission to smile even when others don't smile back. Eventually someone will make visual contact and return a smile my way. This one person can make my day. For the others that don't notice or who look away, I figure I am their seed planter. I am simply planting the seed of joy in their lives. Who knows what tomorrow will bring. Maybe I will start a trend and change the dark cloud over the metro into a sunny, happy place. It only takes one person to make a difference. Be that one person."

Whether you are in a the Paris Metro or walking around the streets in your home town, smile at the people around you. If you smile the world smiles with you. Even if they don't show it, you are helping to make someone's day.

Smiles everyone. Smiles.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee.

FRENCH HEALTH CARE SYSTEM

2009-10-11T03:35:00.000-07:00

It was 4:19 in the morning and my bronchial cough I have had for the better part of ten months was raging. I knew I wasn’t contagious, because I have never given it anyone, but it certainly made it difficult for me to breathe. Not to mention the fact, that it has exacerbated my exercised induced asthma into full blown asthma. Needless to say, my breathing situation has not been easy to deal with over these last several months.

I have been to two doctors here in France. They both gave me antiobiotics and different asthma medication, but now I was out of my asthma spray and I was hurting.

My internet was down and I wasn’t sure where the hospital was, but I decided to follow my instincts and began to make my walk down the quiet French streets. Half way there I was not only painfully coughing, I began to have a full-blown asthma attack. I was barely able to catch my breath. Leaning over trying to gasp for air, I slowly continued on my journey.

Thankfully, my instincts were right and within 15 minutes I was at the military hospital. After reading the sign posted on the gate, I knew they allowed emergency patients to enter, as well. I pressed the bell three times, however, to no avail. I dialed the number listed on the sign and no one answered. I was beginning to panic. I tried to ring the bell one more time and this time the gate opened.

I walked in and nearly breathlessly explained my predicament to the guard. He told me where to go and I repeated my story to the attending nurse. She contacted the doctor and they immediately put me on a ventilator and strapped an IV into my wrist. The ventilator eased my breathing and the IV calmed the coughing. It was a good feeling. I cried from shear joy that I was able to breathe properly again.

They took blood tests and x-rays. Thankfully, I am not contagious (as I already knew) as there was no infection. However, my lungs had some inflammation. The doctor told me this was due to stress. Yes, I knew this too, but it was nice to have the confirmation.

I was at the hospital until nearly noon. Two doctors and many nurses and attendants assisted me. There bedside manner was impeccable. They turned off the lights to allow me to sleep. They fed me a nutritious breakfast when I awoke and they even offered a shower to me. If I was awake, people entered to ask if I needed anything. Even the cleaning woman said a friendly, "Bonjour." I thought those working in the medical field in the U.S. should take note on the French’s more appropriate behavior towards their patients.

The most amazing part of the story, however, was not the fact that I received such wonderful treatment from a gracious staff; it was the fact that I did not carry health insurance and they treated me anyway, all free of charge. I needed help and they came to my rescue. The Hippocratic Oath actually means something to the French.

When I was 8 years old my mom was baking the night before Thanksgiving and dropped a heavy can of flour on her toe. We rushed to the Emergency Room at Kaiser to fix her broken toe. My brother and I played in the waiting room, when I noticed off one of the hallways several people surrounding a patient on a gurney. Someone insisted they could not operate on this man until they had a signature from his wife. A few minutes later the man died. I have never forgotten this image.

I also broke my ankle a few years ago. My orthopedic surgeon informed me that I need orthotics for my shoes after the healing process was done. I paid $420 dollars a month on health insurance and they would not cover me for I did not have diabetes. I am not quite sure what diabetes has to do with broken feet, but clearly our system needs an overhaul.

Why is it that our healthcare system has been allowed to be dictated by insurance carriers? Our medical caretakers are so afraid of making a mistake and being sued that they turn people away. Healers need to remember why they are in the business of healing in the first place. Is it really about money, or are they here to be of service and help others. The French certainly have the right perspective. I hope that someday the Americans will too.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

THE PERFECT CROISSANT

2009-09-30T22:52:00.000-07:00

A little bird whispered in my ear that a boulangerie in the 7^th was the best. So I felt it was my obligation to investigate the matter. I was informed that it was located on Rue Nicot, which would be an easy street to remember for Monsieur Nicot discovered nicotine.

I didn’t know the name of the bakery, but when I saw it, I knew it was the one. Named simply La Boulangerie, the bakery can’t be missed for its overhang announces itself to the street with large bold letters.

I decided to test drive a croissant beurre (butter) and a scrumptious looking spinach quiche. I had been craving spinach anyway and I was delighted that I didn’t have to prepare it myself.

I only had to take one bite into the flaky croissant to know I found the best of its kind I had ever sampled. I could hardly contain my glee as I walked along St. Dominique savoring every morsel. I was only saddened after my last bite. Alas, my sadness was alleviated for I still had my quiche. Surely my eyes must have rolled back into my head as I sampled the egg and spinach tarte. Until that day, I thought I made the best quiche, but this nugget was more like a national treasure.

Their bag claims to have the best baguette in Paris and I tend to believe that it is true. I look forward to experiencing more treats from just another gem in the City of Light. This city is known for the boulangeries and after examining the evidence it is clear that this one is arguably one of its best.

Located at 85, rue St. Dominique at the end of rue Nicot. A second location is in the first arrondissement at 75, rue Saint-Honoré.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

THE COLOR OF MONEY

2009-09-25T00:33:00.001-07:00

Most Americans know better than to ask their friends how much money they earn or to ask how much was spent on a large ticket item like a house. It is considered uncouth for us to be so nosy. The French, on the other hand, take the subject of money to a whole new level. Simply bringing up the word "money" is considered taboo and brings chills down a French person's spine.

The first time I was told that bringing up the word is a major faux pas, I decided to nix it from my vocabulary while in the company of a native. I was soon to learn that is easier said than done. Even though I am aware of it, I am struck by how much we Americans actually think about it.

For example, someone offered me a temporary job that would have paid a lot of money. For one reason or another, it wasn't going to work with my schedule, so I declined the offer. I told the person that I appreciated her proposal and I certainly could have used the money (OOPS, I used it again!) but it just wasn't going to work out. Another French person who overheard the conversation told me that most people would not ever speak to me again after saying that one sentence. Can you imagine!?

I decided to do a little investigating into the matter to find out if the majority of people here agreed that this subject was not to be discussed. While I did not conduct a scientific survey, I did manage to ask a number of locals for their thoughts. In fact, one person mentioned that when he was asked to pay for the rent in full the next day by an American he cringed at the audacity of this woman and nearly lost his lunch. He was so distraught that someone would bring up the forbidden word. When I asked how one collected the rent in France that was owed he didn't know the translation so he told me in French. Essentially, the landlord should have asked to "discuss the arrangement" the next morning. The French don't talk about money, they talk around it.

From my perspective and any American's perspective, things like doctor's bills, massage appointments, classes etc are all paid for an advance. Here in France most things are paid after the fact. That's not such an easy thing for our capitalistic minds to grasp.

Alas, this is their culture and I am trying to soak up as much of the idiosyncrasies as I can. I am just a guest in their house after all. So, check the subject of money at the door. It's not allowed here.

Thank you for reading and bonne journee!

THE SEX-STARVED WOMAN’S GUIDE TO PARIS

2009-09-09T07:25:00.001-07:00

(co-authored with Marion Fiore)

After reading my article A Little Sex to Marion she commented on how I should have added that the gelato at Amarino’s is orgasmic. It’s funny because I used that very word after trying it the first time myself. But alas, while being true, I already finished my article about Amarino’s and it just didn’t seem to fit into that particular piece. However, the dialogue between Marion and I continued.

Marion: “For all the virgins out there, Amorino’s could replace what’s missing in their lives.”

Lisa: “I don’t think it’s just for virgins! What about all the women who are ‘born-again virgins’? They can indulge in a little Amorino’s chocolate gelato too!”

Marion: “Ok, you should write an article about a guide to Paris just for virgins and born-again virgins.”

Lisa: “How about if it’s called The Sex-Starved Woman’s Guide to Paris instead?”

Marion: “That’s it!”

Lisa: “I once read that chocolate stimulates the same hormones that sex does. Also, according to David Dieda, a spiritual sex-expert, he claims that we women are gatherers. We accept men inside of us and when we don’t have that kind of offering we have to intake something in another way. Chocolate to the rescue! No wonder we women crave food when we are stressed out! We can blame our chocoholism on biology!

Men on the other hand, expel their stuff when in the bedroom and therefore when they are stressed out they need to do the same. Hence the reason why they exercise or get into a fight or something else that is active.”

Marion: “That makes so much sense. No wonder we’re eating so much chocolate the last couple of days. By the way, don’t forget to mention in the article about the drinks served at the pizzeria two doors down from Shakespeare and Co. Le Petite Pont has the craziest drinks, like Deep Love, Sexual Healing and Banana Lover, just to mention a few…”

Lisa: “Well, I have never been there. But it seems to me that you are contributing to this article just as much as I am. I have to give you co-authorship.”

Marion: “Oh great, then everyone will know we are both sex-starved.”

Lisa: “What else should we write about in our Guide?”

Marion: “What about parks?”

Lisa: “Parks? What’s so sexy about that? Oh yea, the French make-out everywhere, especially in the parks. I suppose being a voyeur for an afternoon would inspire us.”

Marion: “That’s right and the setting is romantic. We women love romance.”

Lisa: “True.”

Marion: “We have to mention the lingerie shops. There’s something to fit every budget. While there are expensive shops, there are also stores that sell titillating items that look expensive but really aren’t. Lacy little things for only 5€ can easily be found in a number of small shops around town. It’s one of my favorite things about Paris.”

Lisa: “I love lingerie too. I used to manage several Victoria’s Secret shops for four years. I have seen more breasts than I ever care to see and certainly more than any guy ever has, I assure you. Oh, and we need to add cafés to our guide.”

Marion: “Why?”

Lisa: “The all important hot guy watching!”

Marion: “Oh, of course.”

Lisa: “So, what do we have so far? Ogling cute men at cafés; eating Amorino’s gelato, and what else?”

Marion: “You forgot parks, especially Bois de Vincennes in Saint Mandé where there is a flower garden and row boats to take out. It sets the perfect scene for making out.”

Lisa: “Got it. Anything else?”

Marion: “The Sex-Starved woman can mount the Eifel Tower at night wearing her sexy lingerie while her mouth is savoring some chocolate. (By now our giggles have turned into howls of laughter). The tower is so romantic at night with the view and its beautiful lights.”

Lisa: “Mounting the Eifel Tower…got that one too.”

Marion: Marion leans forward and with a gleam in her eyes confides, “I have always had this unfulfilled sexual fantasy that takes place in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.”

Lisa: “Excellent! I think I might indulge in my own version of that fantasy myself.”

Marion: Clearly not listening to me as she is lost in thought, she finally adds in a sultry voice resembling something between Marilyn Monroe and Mae West, “It’s midnight and the chateau is quiet. I sneak out to meet my lover. I look for him, but I can’t find him. Without appearing too anxious, I saunter down to the Hall of Mirrors watching the candelabras reflecting against the mirrors as I walk by. I hear footsteps behind me. My impulse is to run. As my pace picks up, so does his; until finally my heart is beating against my ever exposed blossoming breast. Suddenly, he is upon me. He spins me around and throws me to the ground…”

Lisa: “OK, I think I know where this is going.” I didn’t want to invade on her personal territory too much.

Marion: “Are you sure, because it gets better.”

Lisa: “Well, I think we should leave a little bit to the imagination.”

Marion: “You’re right.”

Lisa: “A stroll by the Seine or on one of the many bridges overlooking the water helps bring out our amorous sides. Sometimes you can find a musician or two playing romantic music to add to the ambience.

Marion: “Perfect.”

Lisa: “What about our friend Kim? She had a late night rendez-vous with a Frenchman. After a few drinks, he took her on the back of his moped and together they checked out the sites of Paris at midnight. The climactic end before heading off to his apartment was at the top of Sacre Cœur. It’s the highest point in Paris and they were able to see the Parisian cityscape lit up against the dark of night. The City of Light aroused their interest and she had her first kiss in Paris.”

Marion: “Talk about foreplay…Kim was such a man-magnet the two weeks she was here. I mean the law of attraction was certainly working in her favor.”

Lisa: “Well, she was a woman on a mission. She knew what she wanted and she most definitely got it…over and over again; each night with a different man. I think the lesson to be learned here is that we can all have whatever it is we want too. If it’s a little passion we are looking for in the park, all we have to do is go out and get it. We are in Paris after all.”

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

A LITTLE SEX

2009-09-07T01:57:00.000-07:00

On one of my soujourns to Paris I sat at a cafe with my favorite book. “We would like some preservatives please,” I overheard the ladies seated next to me asking the waiter. The waiter looked more horrified with each request as their voices grew increasingly louder every time they asked for their ‘preservatives’. After giggling to myself for a moment, I told the waiter in French what they really wanted and explained that preservatives in English means jam. He was relieved as he rushed off to fill their order. I then turned to the women and conveyed that they were asking the waiter for a condom. Needless to say they were embarrassed and grateful for my translating abilities.

This experience still strikes my funny bone, but after relaying the scene to a friend the other day, it occured to me that this was the one and only time I have ever seen a French person grimace at the first sign of a sexual topic being introduced. Perhaps he thought the middle aged women wanted him to be the wearer of the preservative and this man was clearly not interested in the female persuasion.

This situation aside, the French are so open about sexuality that they proudly sell condoms in vending machines outside every pharmacy. One must remember that there are pharmacies on every other block, so that’s a lot of condom machines. It's probably a good thing too, considering the fact that making out in public is practically a national sport. There is absolutely no need to worry if you have an unplanned late night rendez-vous with the opposite sex (or for the same sex for that matter). The machines are available 24-7.

Being from the U.S. and not a frequenter of porn theaters, I was certainly surprised when I watched what we would consider a rated R movie showing un-acted sexual acts. Blow jobs being performed in full view on a mainstream movie is not necessarily out of character here in France. As my shock-o-meter was going off, the French didn't give it a second thought.

And then there is the cultural phenomenon known as 5 a 7 (cinq a sept or 5 to 7 to us). They even have a dry cleaning chain called 5 a sec taking a jibe at the French idiosyncratic way of thinking about sex. 5 a 7 is the time after work where one may go get a drink at a café, meet someone they like, go home with them or rent a hotel room by the hour (yep, even some of the nicer hotels will do that here) and then go home. What, you are married? That makes no difference to a French person, since they are probably married too. Having a bit of a fling doesn’t change the fact that they will go home at 7 to their families.

What about sex mixed in with a little politics? The French were stunned when The United States made such an issue out of President Clinton’s liason with Monica Lewinsky. Who cares about the man’s personal life? Ce n’est pas grave (no big deal). We on the other hand, with our puritanical ancestry showing up in full color, turned a little fellatio into a media circus.

It’s a different world here. And certainly an abundance of opportunities to say "Oui" to a little sex.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

TAXI!

2009-09-07T01:09:00.001-07:00

Yesterday I stopped at a corner traffic light waiting for it to turn green. Standing next to a family of three, I noticed that the father and teenage son were waiving their hands in the air, discouraged each time an empty cab drove by.

“Why won’t any of them stop?” the mom wondered aloud. “Don’t they want a fare?”

I took it upon myself to save them from any more anxiety and wasted time. “American, right?”

“Yes,” the father said.

“They don’t hail cabs here.” The arms of the two men immediately fell to their sides. "While you may luck out and get someone to pick you up, generally that is not the norm. Unless you call them for a pickup you have to walk to a taxi stand."

When you are in someone else’s backyard, don’t expect the rules to be the same. Here are a few more differences…

In America, we try to make it as easy as possible for people to pay for something: credit cards, cash and change are accepted at any BART (Bay Area subway) station. Ever try to put your American credit card in the ticket machine at one metro stops in Paris? If you have, you already know it doesn’t work. A small inconvenience, but at least it will take bills right? Unfortunately, the majority of machines will not accept bills either. So, weigh down your wallet with coins, you’re going to need them. And just a side note about the metro tickets, you will save 4€40 on a packet of 10. Just find the word ‘carnet’ on the machine.

I can always spot an American when they are riding an escalator. Americans want to chat with their friends and stand side by side so they can easily do so. If you are traveling just about anywhere in Europe, it is common courtesy to stand to the right to allow others pass. If you don’t, you may get a few angrily voiced ‘pardon’s’ coming your way.

What about getting the check at a restaurant? While in the U.S. it is the goal of every server to feed you and get you out as soon as possible so they can serve the next person and make more money. Here in Paris, the French want you to relax, savor each bite, enjoy your conversation and do a bit of people watching. They rarely will hand you the bill unless you ask for it. L’addition s’il vous plait (law-dee-sea-ohn sea-voo-play) is the proper way to ask for the check.

The French love their movies, but you are not allowed to wait inside the theater for it to start. Buy your tickets. Check your ticket to see which theater you will be in. Then queue up outside behind the corresponding number that matches the ticket. About 10 minutes before start time they will let you in.

Before getting into the movie, you will want to use 'la toilette'. They are all a little different here. But one thing to notice is that the smaller button is for smaller flushes and the larger button, well I think you get the picture.

Before visiting any country I always recommend reading up on the cultural differences. Or at the very least be open to learning them while you are here. We can all learn from each other and make the world a better place.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

MMM, GELATO!

2009-09-01T07:24:00.000-07:00

The first time I tried Italian gelato I was visiting Rome and was blown away by its taste. Even in the cold of winter I had to stop off to get my scoop for the day. American gelato simply does not hold a candle to the original Italian. While Americans may not be able to find a comparable gelato at home, one can find the delectable flavors of Italy here in France.

Amorino Gelati boutiques are thankfully sprinkled throughout Paris. The haute design of each shop may entice one to walk in the door, but its the ice cream that keeps customers coming back. From creme caramel to coconut, there is something for everyone here. Take one bite and you will be hooked for life. Amorino only uses the freshest of ingredients which gives the gelato its savory taste. You will be hard pressed to not say "mmm" with every bite.

And it's not just about the taste. Amorino captivates us with our eyes, as well. They take visual presentation to a whole new level. Using a flat metal spatula each scoop is placed on the layer before to make the cone look like a flower. No wonder it can't be resisted.

Summer may be coming to a close, but that doesn't mean you should stop eating your gelato. Even if you have to take a detour to Amorino, your taste buds will be delighted you did.

You can visit Amarino online at www.amorino.fr.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

FRENCH LAUNDRY

2009-08-28T02:30:00.000-07:00

You have been in Europe for awhile and you know this because the pile of dirty laundry on the floor is growing exponentially. With each passing day the pile gets bigger and the clean clothes in the suitcases quickly disappear until there is nothing but a cavernous dark space left. You don’t want to miss a moment away from the exciting life of Paris, but alas you want to at least appear to be civilized with a few clean clothes on your body. If you are in a hotel that doesn’t have laundry service or if you are renting an apartment without a washer and dryer, you will need to bite the bullet and spend a couple of hours at the local laverie (that's laundromat for you and me).

While most of you have washers and dryers back home, I am sure you have visited a laundromat at some point in your life, probably back in your college days. As you know, each washer and dryer identifies the price and you put the correct change in the slot provided on the machine. This is not the case in Paris, or anywhere in Europe that I have explored for that matter. So, a “petite” lesson in English is required.

Firstly, you will want to load the machine. Next, you will want to put any detergents, pre-wash and/or softeners in the machine. So far, so good; it’s just like it is at home. The bad news is the slots probably won’t be labeled to know what needs to go where. Just remember it’s like reading a book. We read left to right. So, the left slot is for the pre-wash (the first chapter), the middle slot is for the detergent (the 2nd chapter) and the right slot is for the softener (the last chapter). If you forget, just look for the space with the caked on detergent residue. That will be the place for your soap.

For the right temperature, it is easier to know a few words in French rather than trying to figure out what degree in Celsius you will need. Couleur = Color, Blanc = White, Synthetique = Polyester, Laine = Wool, Nylon = Well, you probably don't need a translation for this one. Press the correct button and you are almost at the starting gate.

This is the time where things get a little different from our Laundromats. Located on each machine there will be a fairly visible number. There will also be a central machine located somewhere in the room where you deposit your coins. Some places allow bills as well, but double check before loading the machine. You don’t want to be stuck having to unload the washer because you don’t have enough change.

Press the number of the washer you are using into the coin machine. It will then tell you the price, probably somewhere between 3-8 € depending on the size of the washer. Voila! 35 minutes to an hour or so later, you will have a load of clean clothes.

Next step are the dryers. The same rules apply here. Typically, you will have 10 minutes for each euro or so. I suggest lightening the load and spreading your laundry out into a few machines. It will dry much faster which will give your more time for gallivanting in the city.

Don’t forget to bring a book so your brain cells will have something to do other than watching the clothes circling around the tub. While you are there, try to notice if anyone else is reading an English book. If they are, why not ask where they are from. It’s a great conversation starter and who knows maybe you will have an interesting dialogue to fill the time. You might even make a new friend.

Happy washing!

Thanks for reading and bonne journée!

PARIS IN PICTURES

2009-08-21T05:02:00.000-07:00

American expat and acclaimed photographer Ami Sioux has published her second book PARIS 48˚49N 2˚29E. This eclectic mixture of photos gives the audience an insider's impression of Ami's adopted home...and just in case you were wondering, the numbers correlate to the longitude and latitude of the city, just check a map or Google to see for yourself.

Ami engaged 50 friends and strangers to hand draw maps of various spots in Paris that held significant meaning for them. Guided by the map alone, she set out on a treasure hunt of sorts to find the perfect picture associated with each diagram.

The reader is allowed to join Ami on her quest for the perfect photo by viewing the drawn map on the left adjacent to the corresponding picture on the right side of each page.

Capture the essence of Paris from the vantage point of an artist. From Notre Dame to visiting 'John le Dinosaure' there is something for everyone. Enjoy The City of Light with the ease of a flip of a page or better yet take the book with you to discover each of the treasured shots in person.

For more information on Ami Sioux's work, visit her site at http://www.amisioux.com/.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée.

A ROMANTIC INTERLUDE

2009-08-17T02:48:00.000-07:00

It’s still warm outside as the sun begins to wane. I open the beveled glass windows to allow a breeze to run through my bedroom. Like so many Parisian apartments, this two-century old building, encompasses a courtyard. If the draperies are pulled back one can get a glimpse of any neighbor in the building. About half of the other windows are open, as well. I assume the others remain closed because the occupants have left Paris in the mass exodus of August.

I pick up a book to read when out of one of the windows comes the enchanting sounds of a bow sweetly caressing the strings of a cello. A violin joins in shortly thereafter. The book no longer holds my interest. There is something more romantic about the music being heard. The two musicians are undoubtedly practicing for a concert, but my mind begins to wander creating an additional storyline. I grab a pen and paper and begin to write it all down.

As I look around the apartment which holds so much history, I begin to see how it must have looked when the first occupants lived here. Its 18-foot ceiling with elaborate crown molding accentuate the grandeur of the space. The wood floor has had many who walked upon it over the previous twenty decades and I wondered how many stories these walls carry and if they will ever unlock their secrets.

I move back in time and visualize its first owner as an 18th century pre-revolutionary aristocrat. This is the meeting place he has for himself and his married lover for their seductive rendez-vous. She had been given a key and is awaiting his arrival.

Not that there hadn’t been plenty of offers over the years, for this woman has a particular wit that is only surpassed by her beauty, but she had never done anything like this before and she could feel the butterflies dancing in her stomach. She had long since decided, however, she would go through with it for she didn’t love her husband; she never did.

It was announced to her at the age of 16 that she would marry a duke. It was her obligation. So, she walked down the aisle knowing very little about her betrothed. It didn’t take long before she grew to detest him. Now, at the age of 25, she had met the one man whom she truly loved and she wanted to experience for the first time what making love was really like.

She stood looking out the window at the pink roses blooming. She thought how their color matched her silk dress. He had said how he loved seeing her in this dress, so she made certain to wear it for him. She had her maid lace her up that morning a little more tightly than usual to show a bit more cleavage than she normally displays. In her mind she pretended this was her real wedding day. She was glowing. She couldn’t have looked more radiant.

Her lover was a musician; not by trade, but rather as a hobby. The seductiveness of his playing is what first captured her attention. He carried his violin wherever he went. His friends never tired of hearing his artistry. He played with such joie de vivre, she couldn’t help but want to know more about this man.

He had gained a reputation in courtly circles as a ladies man; the quintessential dragueur. His sensuality was not reserved merely for his violin. He was not a titled man, but because he had his own fortune, inherent good looks, and his unchallenged talent for the violin, his lack of a royal title never seemed to impose upon him in any way.

The king adored this man’s tales of seduction, but he would have become irate had he known what he was about to do with his youngest married cousin. This had to be kept a secret. While this man had broken many hearts in the past, this woman had conquered his own heart for the first time in his life. She was the only one he wanted now and forevermore, no matter what the cost.

He sneaks up the back stairs to the third floor of the Marais apartment and as soon as he closes the door behind him, he begins to play his violin. She hears him from the other room. She closes her eyes and smiles as she takes in a deep breath. He is finally here. The time has finally come. She couldn’t contain her bliss. She continues to wait by the window in the boudoir for him as he slowly maneuvers his way back to her. With each passing moment, they both become more and more entrenched with desire.

The music grows louder as he approaches her and she can not help but be entranced by every note. He is only a few inches behind her now and he can not wait any longer; nor can she, the anticipation is too strong. He wraps one arm around her bodice and with the other he takes his fingers and tenderly strokes the back of her neck. She turns around to meet his gaze. They peer into one another’s soul as they kiss for the first time.

The music coming from the other apartment stops at this moment as does my pen. The story I created in my mind is over. I arose to thank the musicians for their glorious playing which gave me my titillating story. Alas, while out on the balcony, I could not see them from my vantage point. They were no longer near the window. I imagine further that the two musicians got just as caught up in the romance of the music as I did and had to continue their passion in another manner. I only hope they practice again on another day.

…Just another moment in Paris.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Château de Vincennes

2009-08-12T20:24:00.000-07:00

The Louvre and Versailles are not the only châteaux in the neighborhood. While not in Paris proper, Château de Vincennes is just a hop, skip and a jump away; a few metro stops on the line 1 direction Chateau de Vincennes.

Once a hunting lodge developed in the 11th century, ever the construction king, Charles V began to enlarge this royal country home three centuries later into one of the largest châteaux in Europe. Buildings were added in subsequent years and the castle was finally completed in the 17th century.

The castle has a predominantly medieval feel with its fortress walls and a large moat keeping marauders out and the royal court in. The water has long since been drained from the barricade and replaced by grass, but one certainly can imagine how challenging it would have been for a knight dressed in armor to cross this once formidable water-filled area.

Enter the courtyard of the castle at no charge. One can almost hear the faint memory of horse’s hooves from a bygone era galloping along the interior. Approximately, half way through the grounds a large banner will be posted on the right. This will be the place to buy tickets to the chapel and the donjon (dungeon). Tickets can be purchased separately for 8€ each or if you would like to see both, pay for a package deal at 12€.

This city-fortress would not have been complete without a chapel for the royal family and their entourage to pray in. Built in the Gothic style, this building counterposes the masculine nature of the fortress. This more feminine building reaches into the heavens with sheer grace. Customary for the time, stained glass windows align this 14th century chapel. On the day I visited, the chapel housed an exhibition of Bulgarian medieval works of art.

Most surprisingly to this pacifist, I was fascinated how much the dojon intrigued me. Housing many famous prisoners, including a king, it clearly was a posh prison experience. Take note how well worn each of the marble steps are from the 700 years of wear and tear. If you can speak or read French, the tour of the tower begins with a short film with French subtitles documenting the history of the imposing dungeon-tower. Guided tours are also offered, but again you must have a working knowledge of the native tongue. Audio guides are available in English for those who didn’t take French 101 in high school.

Lastly, I wanted to mention that a path encircles the building, in order for one to get a 360 degree vantage point of the exterior. Walk through history as you see the very obvious differing architectural styles of the buildings. So sport your tennis shoes and get a bit of exercise while enjoying this monument to history.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

THE 19eme IS PART OF PARIS TOO!

2009-08-08T21:54:00.000-07:00

For years, I had been reticent to explore outside the arrondissements that were not centrally located. I had everything I needed in the heart of Paris and didn't deem it necessary to venture out any further. Besides, I had been warned that districts like the 19th had a 'bad' element and one had to be careful there. So, the many times I visited Paris I made sure to avoid it all together.

Recently, however, I accepted a house-sitting position here in the 19th. When I first received the initial email from the homeowner, I gulped at the prospect of living there for a few weeks. But, the woman seemed nice and I decided to at least meet with her.

I made certain our initial rendez-vous was during the day in case all I had heard about this part of town was correct. I am glad to report that what I saw was a delightful neighborhood near Place du Colonial Fabien which was brimming with cafés, restaurants and fruit and vegetable shops, just like the rest of Paris. I later read that this area is an up and coming district where professionals are moving in and refurbishing a once run down part of town. All the better for me.

I walked up the five flights to the apartment and was greeted at the door by a charming woman. As she gave me a tour of her home, I was grateful she contacted me, for her home was the loveliest I had seen in Paris to date. When she offered her home to me for three weeks, I could barely contain my glee.

On the first day I arrived I wanted to take advantage of seeing any interesting sites in the district while I was here...the internet to the rescue! No, this area doesn't have the typical tourist destinations such as Notre Dame or the Eifel Tower, but in its heart rests two of the most popular parks in Paris: the Parc des Buttes Chaumont and the Parc de la Villette.

The former was closer to my temporary home, so I ventured there first. Situated amongst one of the few sets of rolling hills in Paris, trees and plant life adorn this incredible park. You will feel as though you left Paris and stepped into The Garden of Eden. Amble up to the highest peak and see the spectacular cityscape to remind yourself that you are still indeed in an urban environment.

The sights and sounds of the different waterfalls set amid breathtaking rock formations bring a sense of tranquility to the senses. The alluring shades of colors from the flowers surrounded by the lush greens from the leaves will connect you with nature immediately. One mustn't forget the architecture of the bridges, as well, reminding you that man did contribute to this beauty.

At any hour during daylight, the park will be filled with joggers, meditators, frisbee throwers, kids playing in one of the playgrounds, an abundance of people taking a casual stroll, and many who sit on the grass soaking up the sun. Don't be surprised if you catch a glimpse of couples of all ages sharing a passionate kiss; this is Paris afterall! There is even an outdoor restaurant-bar where you can grab a quick drink or have a relaxing meal while surrounded by all this beauty.

Parc de la Villette offers a totally different experience. It's sprawling flat land covered with grass is a picnic-er and soccer player's delight. One can take a long walk on the tree-lined path which offers much needed shade on a hot August day.

Located in the front of the park is a plethora of contemporary buildings which offers a host of entertainments. From the Cité des Sciences, which is an interactive museum perfect for children to the Cité des Musique which offers a media center, museum and holds concerts among other things, you won't be bored. If movies are more your thing, not to worry, a large movie theater is awaiting your arrival.

While most tourists won't venture out of the centrally located arrondissements, why not take a chance and go where the French go. Whether you are looking for something to do with the children, or simply want a romantic getaway for two, one of these parks will suit your needs nicely.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

AT A BOOK STORE NEAR YOU

2009-08-03T18:15:00.000-07:00

After four years of university, I did what any reasonable post-graduate does; I packed my backpack and headed off to Europe for a two month sojourn. I visited the anglo-speaking countries first, and then trotted off (or should I more appropriately say glided on a high-speed catamaran) to the mainland. In only a few days of touring Paris, I found that I had already read all the books I brought with me. Here I was, in a foreign speaking country and no book to read. I was in a panic!

This was in the days before internet access. So, I couldn't run to my keyboard and ask Google if there was an English speaking book store in Paris. Thankfully, my hostess loved everything American and she informed me that Gibert Jeune on St. Michel had an English language section. Lady Chatterley's Lover to the rescue!

Twenty years later, I find that I am in need of a good book on a regular basis. The ubiquitous search engines have provided me with a slew of appropriate book sellers for me in the Paris area.

WH Smith, for example, is an English bookshop located on rue de Rivoli. It is the closest thing to a Barnes & Noble this side of the Atlantic. This two storied shop is filled with nothing but the newest books. If they don't have what you are looking for, they have a whole department upstairs in the back dedicated for orders. Just a word of caution, you will inevitably receive an email that they only accept firm orders. Stiff them once and I am sure they will not offer this service to you anymore.

As an avid reader, George Whitman found himself with too many books and in 1951 decided to open the doors to the now famous Shakespeare & Co. Located on rue de la Bûcherie, across from Notre Dame. This standard is a must visit. New and used books or sold here and there is a library upstairs for those who would like to read while in the store. Evening readings from various authors and writing workshops are a staple at Shakespeare & Co. Last night, I had the pleasure of attending a reading of The Secret Life of France, by Lucy Wadham. Her perception of the cultural differences between France and her native England, as well as America, lent for a long line of signings for this charming expat-author.

I have mentioned the Canadian-owned Abbey in the past and won't repeat myself here, except to say that this is another new and used store. So if your trying to lighten your load by pawning off your already read books this is the place for you.

So, on your next trip if you don't feel like weighing down your suitcases with extra books, there's nothing to worry about. There will be plenty to choose from at a book store near you when you arrive.

For a full listing of English-speaking book sellers, please go to: http://www.discoverfrance.net/France/Paris/Shopping/Paris_bookstores.shtml. Please note that Brentano's has been in liquidation since June and won't be around much longer.

For a list of monthly readings and events, please visit Jennifer K. Dik's blog (author of Fluorensence) at http://parisreadingsmonthlylisting.blogspot.com/. Note that if you are here in August, there isn't much going on except at Shakespeare.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

A Year in the MERDE

2009-07-24T00:05:00.000-07:00

For the last several months I have been seeing Stephen Clarke's book A Year in the Merde everywhere. It's as though this book was following me. I have befriended a few authors in Paris and inevitably their copy of the paperback would boldly stand out amongst all the other books crammed on their shelves.

Even in the Abbey Bookshop Merde is the only book I remember seeing. For those of you who haven't yet made a trek into the Abbey, let me give you a brief description. It's design is "male professor with a love of books and no woman to say hey clean up this mess." The shop is tiny and cluttered without any sense of organization whatsoever. Frankly, that's what gives this unusual store its sense of charm. New and used books are stacked across almost every square inch of the shop leaving only a tiny aisle to peruse the piles. Don't eat any donuts or you may not be able to make it through. Even amonst this organized chaos, Merde was visible for all to see. I took it as a sign that this was a book I needed to read. And boy am I glad I listened to the Universe on this one.

The first page shares with readers Clarke's biography. "Stephen Clarke is a British journalist and writer working for a French press group in Paris." Ok, that sounds very bio-esque. Then his flair for comedy starts to unfurl, "A Year in the Merde is an almost-true account of things that may or may not have happened to him in the ten years he has lived in France, depending on who is asking the question." And this is part of his bio!

Needless to say, Merde is a laugh-out-loud hilarious account of a Brit's jump into a bath of miscommunications and cultural differences when he moves to Paris for a year. Why does the waiter decide to go on a 13-hour strike in the middle of serving the protagonists' lunch, but still demands to be paid for his services? Why is it that totally unqualified employees can't be fired in France? And why do the women think our hero is a nice Englishman, when all he wants is a roll in the hay?

To find out the answers to these questions and more, just pick up a copy. I assure you this book can be found at any of the English speaking bookstores in Paris.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

A Beach in Paris?

2009-07-22T21:40:00.000-07:00

It's a hot summer day and you are longing for the sand and sun that a beach provides, but you find yourself in Paris, miles away from the Atlantic and Mediteranean Sea. Will you fight traffic to get to the beaches of Normandy to find your repose? You could; but if you are here in late July through August that won't be necessary. You will be just a metro stop away from Paris Plage, a makeshift beach provided for the tourists and the few French people who haven't fled Paris for the summer.

Since 2002, Paris Plage has been enchanting sojourners with imported sand aligning the right bank of the Seine. And this sand is the good stuff too. It's not the course grainy sand of the Pacific. It's as though they sifted all the junk out, leaving only a fine layer of a bit of Heaven that will delight your feet.

Located along the quais Henri IV, Célestins, l'Hôtel de Ville, Mégisserie and the Louvre, just look for the row of blue umbrellas and lawn chairs down on the bank and you will be there. Changing rooms are provided and there will be some sort of water available to splash on your face.

If sunbathing isn't your thing, not to worry; there are a host of activities ranging from table tennis, fencing, working out, dance, youth oriented musicals, massage, a playground for kids, just to name a few. There is certainly no room for boredom at Paris Plage.

So, pack your plastic buckets and shovels and be prepared to make some sand castles. Paris Plage is just a doorstep away.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée.

LE TOUR de FRANCE

2009-07-20T22:24:00.001-07:00

You know it’s that time of year again when all you see on television is Lance Armstrong hanging out with one well-known actor or another. The famous 7-time winner is the darling and the adversary of the cycling world and clearly the showman of the sport. He is one among the nearly 200 riders invited to race Le Tour de France. Arguably, the most famous bicycle race in the world (and frankly the only one this writer even knows about), “Le Tour” is one of France’s largest spectacles and sources of national pride.

Clad in their various shades of spandex, all pining for that yellow jersey the person holding the best time as of the previous day’s stage gets to wear; the ubiquitous amount of riders chase their dream of winning the overall race.

The century old competition got its start in 1903. What started out as a 5 day race now spans 23 days. The route changes annually, but inevitably racers will be climbing both mountains and spanning valleys alike. This year, Prince Albert offered his support at the commencement of the race in Monaco. The momentous finish line, however, never changes. Of course, the racers cross the finish line in dramatic fashion on the Champs Élysées in Paris crossing the symbolic threshold of Napolean’s Arc de Triomphe.

As a non-rider myself I find it curious how the announcers are able to fill so much time speaking about the race. What are they actually saying? I have envisioned it goes something like, “…and they are peddling over the mountains…and now they are peddling on flat land…and now they are peddling some more through the cities.” What more can truly be said?

Whether you are interested in the race or if like me you simply want to see a plethora of cute men showing off their powerful legs, this may very well be the activity for you. So sport your baseball caps and sunblock and cheer from the sidelines or watch from the comforts of your own home, either way Le Tour is here to stay.

For more information, visit the Tour’s official website at http://www.letour.fr/.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

BASTILLE DAY

2009-07-13T22:15:00.001-07:00

The Americans had a Revolution and the French followed suit with their own a few years later. Over two centuries have passed and the remnants of this fight for freedom still remain. One cannot miss the ubiquitous French motto "Liberté, Equalité, Fraternité" screaming to the high heavens on many public buildings and statues all over the country.

Fête Nationale (National Celebration) or what is more commonly referred to as le quatorze juillet (the 14th of July) commemorates the Fête de la Fédération of 1790 held on the first anniversary after the storming of the now long gone Bastille Prison. Poor Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette didn't stand a change against Monsieur Guillotine and the old monarchy was replaced by a new constitutional monarchy. A grand feast celebrated the new government and "Bastille Day" has been recognized ever since. Of course, the dynamics have changed a bit. For one thing we no longer have to wear the formal attire and white wigs the 18th century citizens had to endure!

Like in the U.S., the French make their Indedpendence Day a national holiday, celebrating into the wee hours of the night. For the daytime festivities, join the crowds at the Champs-Elysees where there is the customary parade as well as the military jets streaming blue, white and red above.

For the evening, you won't want to miss the specatular fireworks. Of course, you will be able to see them just about anywhere in Paris, but if don't mind the crowds head towards the Eifel Tower. You will be so close to the action that you will inevitibly duck out of the way as the fireworks will appear to be falling on you. The Chinese may have discovered fireworks, but the French use their artistic abilities to create the most magnificent show I have ever seen. For those of you who watched the millenium celebrations around the world, you will probably remember that France's display blew everyone else's away.

So, eat, drink and be merry on this day of national celebration. The French certainly will be.

Thanks for reading and bonne journée!

MOVIE, ANYONE?

2009-07-13T02:05:00.000-07:00

For those of us movie-aholics or for anyone who simply has a hankering for some buttered popcorn and a chance to see Johnny Depp on the screen, don't despair that you won't be able to get your fix while in Paris. The French love, or should I emphasize--LOVE, movies. You will be hard-pressed to find a theater that is not almost entirely full at most times of the day. Thankfully, many theaters host American and other English speaking films in our native tongue with French sub-titles. Hallelujah!

The trick is to look for English speaking films that say V.O. or version originale (original version) on the listing. Pay attention to the V.O. times too, because some theaters will show the film in English for a week or two and then put up the dubbed version. Others, play the dubbed version during the day, so that French children can understand what is going on. But rest assured somewhere at some point in the day, you will be able to see the movie of your choice in English.

If you are a student, show your student i.d. card and get a discount. If you are going to be in Paris for awhile, you might also consider buying a bulk rate ticket, where you can see a certain amount of films during a certain period of time. As I said the French love their films and most of them pay less by buying tickets in this way.

Wednesdays are the days that movies come out in France. You can find theater listings online with Pariscope at www.spectacles.premiere.fr/pariscope/theatre. If your high school French doesn't help you in reading the schedule, simply go to Google and type the word Pariscope. The first listing will be what you want. Before you press the link, however, click on the translate button. Your page will miraculously show up in English. I personally prefer http://www.cityvox.fr/. Many of the listings and reviews have been translated into English, as well. Or simply walk around and check out the postings on one of the many theaters in town.

Please note: if you have decided to stay in and rent a movie from a Video Futur (France's version of Blockbuster) or some other rental house, avoid any disappointments by not bringing home a movie you can't understand. While most movies are in V.O. there are those out there that are not. Look for the word "anglais" on the back of the DVD box to make certain that it hasn't been dubbed.

Or just stick with going out. With over 100 movie houses in Paris, you are sure to find the film you are looking for. And don't forget to pack your wallets with extra cash so you can indulge in some Haagan Dazs ice cream, swiss chocolate or the good old standby, popcorn and a coke.

Happy watching and bonne journée!

Fête de la Musique

2009-06-22T00:19:00.001-07:00

Yesterday, brought forth the summer solstice. With the change in season, the French take advantage of partying on the longest day of the year. Every June 21st you can expect to see the Fête de la Musique taking center stage in France.

In every town there will be some sort of musical spectacle, where neighbors gather for the festivities. In Paris, don’t expect to see just one, but hundreds and hundreds of mini-concerts everywhere on every corner. If you thought you were going to sleep tonight, you better bring out a double dose of earplugs. Or better yet, just go outside and enjoy the music too.

From rock and pop to jazz and classical, there is a bit of everything here. Just have your feet follow the sounds and you are sure to find something that fits your musical taste. You can even enjoy a meal or a glass of wine at a café. Inevitably there will be one band or another playing near by.

So, kick up your heels and put on your party hats. June 21st is about an evening of fun…and boy are you going to have it!

Thanks for reading and bonne journée!

Square René le Gall

2009-06-06T05:59:00.000-07:00

On my way to buy some groceries, I decided to take my own advice and wander around for a bit beforehand. I had no idea where I was going, but looked forward to see what I might find. My inner wisdom told me to make a right turn and then another right, so I did. I didn't know what awaited me, but I knew it would be good...and I was right.

Tucked away in the 13th arrondissement on rue Berbier near rue Corvisant, I had just discovered a nearly hidden precious gem. Square René le Gall is by far and away the most beautiful park in Paris I have come across.

Lush doesn't quite describe the amount of green I could see. A ubiquitous amount of leaves from the many trees and plants surrounded me. I have been working on manifesting my abundance when I realized abundance was truly already here. There were literally millions of leaves just on this small plot of land. It was hard to believe I was in one of the most metropolitan cities in the world. It was as though I left it for a moment and ran into the Garden of Eden.

Vibrant colors captured my attention as I followed the path which led to a flower garden made primarily from roses. Seductive scents from each variety wafted in the air. This was a bit of Heaven.

I continued on my journey to see a water garden filled with various water plants. The calming sound of the running stream with its small waterfall filled my ears with complete serenity. The songbirds chimed in with their lovely sounds as a raven flew above filled with mystery and magic.

At the other end of the square was a playground with a few children cavorting, finding great joy in their adventure.

This park is probably not listed in the guidebooks and yet it is the most extraordinary one I have seen as of yet. It's days like today I am glad I took my own advice to simply wander around and see what I might find. I didn't have my map. I didn't know where I was and after I was done, the mystery street I had discovered landed me right in front of the grocery store where I intended to go all along. It was a perfect day.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Sacré-Cœur Basilica

2009-05-31T00:56:00.000-07:00

Dedicated to Christ's heart, Sacré-Cœur Basilica stands proudly atop the highest point in Paris in the Montmartre (mount of martyrs) district. It's notorious for being the ugliest church in the world, but I have good news; it grows on you. Construction began in 1875 for this Roman Catholic basilica and remains a focal point for spiritual pilgrims and tourists alike.

Since Sacré-Cœur rests on a hill, it stands to reason there would be some stairs in order to reach it. I tried finding the amount online, but I think no one has ever bothered counting that high. It is quite a trek of several dozen, perhaps hundreds of steep steps. Don't bother with a stair climber afterwards, your work out will be finished after this hike.

If you are not up for the climb, take the funicular or Le Funiculaire de Montmartre. Your metro ticket will work there. You can catch it at the Place Suzanne-Valadon.

There is more to Montmartre than the church. The famous Moulin Rouge is around the corner and on weekends you can find a plethora of local artists hawking their goods. You can also have a portrait made while you wait. Be forwarned, you will be accosted by several men with pencils and drawing pads in hand trying to convince you to get your portrait done. They all speak English too, so they are not so easy to ignore.

You may spot an array of entertainers. Yesterday, I was fortunate to be a part of a cheering audience for two very talented musicians. Hundreds of people gathered on the steps listening to their amazing vocals and guitar playing.

Lots of cafes are located on the mount. Remember this place is geared for tourists and the prices will reflect that.

If you end up eating too many croissants and wish to burn a few more calories after your visit, the hike down is a bit easier on your cardiovascular system and offers quite a nice view of the city.
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A note of caution, Sacré-Cœur and the hill leading up to it is filled with primarily English speaking visitors. That being said, tourists are the prime targets for pickpockets. Crowds are so packed in, it's like being at a rock concert, which makes it only easier for a thief. Once you get off the metro make sure all backpacks, purses and wallets are clenched in FRONT of your body or someone could rip you off and you won't even know it.

To learn more about the church visit the website in English at:

http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/us/index.html

Metro: Anvers or Abesses

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Nespresso Anyone?

2009-05-24T10:27:00.000-07:00

For you coffee lovers, you will want to check out Nespresso. Starbucks and Pete's don't hold a candle to this upscale coffee shop. Coffee shop isn't quite the right description, it's more like a coffee boutique. Two floors of elegently displayed coffee machines, sweets and the all important coffee are presented in espresso colored cabinetry in order to show off the beautiful packaging. Nespresso looks more like a Louis Vuitton or Valentino shop; haute couture for coffee afficianados.

Buying coffee here is like ordering wine from a vintner. Pick up a menu at one of the desks which describe in detail the parfum, taste and strength as well as what part of the world each style of bean comes from.

AA coffee was not quite palatable enough for Nespresso merchants so they introduced AAA sustainable quality beans to the world in 2003; only the best will do. They combine the best quality beans focusing on the highest standards in farming practices in order to keep the environment safe.

Mmm, and while you are at it, you won't want to miss trying one of the delectible treats being passed on a silver tray by one or more servers. And since we are talking about the employees anyway, I think it's safe to say that the beautiful people work here. Men wear the customary metro sexual monochramatic black suit, tie and shirt while the women wear black slacks with taupe silk blouses; not an apron or a bit of polyester in site at the store.

Weather, you are drinking your cup in the salon upstairs or buying something a emporter (to go), your taste buds will be thrilled with delight.

Visit their flagship store located at:
119 Avenue des Champs Elysées
Paris
http://fr.nespresso.com/#/fr/en

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!
(If you wish for me to respond to your inquiry, please make sure to either email me directly or leave your email address in the comment box.)

THE "WHY" FACTOR

2009-05-21T06:52:00.000-07:00

I can not tell you how many times in the last few months I have been asked by a French person "why do we say such and such in English?" I have only one repsonse, "I DON'T KNOW!" There is a very definite difference between our two respected cultures. As Americans we couldn't care less about the etymology of words...in case you didn't know, etymology is the study of the history of words and how they change over time. The French on the other hand, know exactly what specific area of France a word was first created, why it was formed and every nuance of the word.

I first thought it was ridiculous that I was constantly being asked the "why" question. What a strange habit this culture has gotten themselves into. But over time, I have come to appreciate this idiosyncrasy of theirs. As a lay historian, I appreciate historical stories, historical clothing, so why does it seem so strange to know the genesis of a particular word? I think it's rather charming. It's too bad as a cultural standard we have lost the knowledge or the interest in learning about the history of our language.

If you plan to come to France and actually converse with the French, either pick up a word origin book and study it carefully before coming or be prepared to laugh at your lack of knowledge and prepare yourself to say, "I don't know," a lot.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

(If you wish for me to respond to your inquiry, please make sure to either email me directly or leave your email address in the comment box.)

GROCERY STORE ETTIQUETTE

2009-05-11T04:54:00.000-07:00

While you might be hard pressed to find too many large supermarchés in Paris proper; if you travel into the banlieu (the burbs) you will. If you do find yourself at one of these stores make certain to only enter it where the security guard is located. Do not cut between closed cash register aisles or where the information desk is. If you do, you might find the security guard chasing you down, reprimanding you in the aisles. Yep, it happened to me! If the store is small enough to only have one clear cut entrance as most of them do in Paris you will be in the clear.

Another idiosyncracy you will need to know before going on your shopping excursion is that fruits and vegetables that are not pre-packaged with the price clearly attached, will need to be priced by you. Put your broccoli in a bag and look for the scale located somewhere nearby. Thankfully, you don't have too speak or read French to operate the scale. Just find the corresponding picture and press it. Your price will be tabulated and a sticker will pop out. Slap it on the bag and you are good to go.

Eggs are NOT in the refrigerated section. Yep, it was a shock to me too. So, don't be surprised when you can't find them there. Just a note on health safety: I have never been sick from eating French eggs and I eat them almost every day.

The check out lines are a whole different ball game than at home. YOU bag your own groceries as the cashier sits in a chair ringing you up. The first time I bagged my groceries it took me so long that two other people behind me finished their purchases before I was done bagging. Now, I am a pro. I am armed with my bag ready to place each item in it as the cashier slides them down the counter.

You will have to bring your own bags or ask for un sac s'il vous plaît (uh sock see voo play). If you would like more than one bag just show how many with your fingers. Just know that you will be charged about 10 centimes for each one.

The good news is that grocery stores are incredibly cheaper in France than they are in San Francisco. So, your pocketbook will be happy.

Enjoy the experience and bonne journée!

THE AMERICAN CHURCH

2009-05-11T04:01:00.000-07:00

I was first introduced to The American Church not because of the church itself, but because they are widely known throughout Paris to post ads for housing. People gather during non-worshipping hours with pens and papers in hand hoping to find just the right spot to live. Don't bother looking on Sundays, however. The bulletin boards are covered up.

Located on the quai d'Orsay, just a five minute walk from Les Invalides metro station, this church has been serving American expatriates, as well as other English speaking members since 1857. Traditional services are offered on Sundays at 9:00 and 11:00 and a contemporary service is at 1:30.

Docent tours are given every Sunday (with the exception of the first Sunday of the month) at noon.

Rev. Dr. Scott Herr leads the interdenominational Protestant church. Even as a non-Christian, I myself enjoyed listening to his contemporary sermon filled with positive messages. One can't help but like this man that never stopped smiling.

I was first drawn into the church by the truly magnificent voice of the singer. During the contemporary service much of the hour was spent listening to her and that was not a problem for me. Hands waived and bodies swayed as the audience couldn't help but be captivated by her talent.

The American Church has a host of classes, activities and other forms of fellowship, which are all listed on their website.

If you are an expat or a visiting Christian, this is the church for you. If you simply are looking to discover information about the history and the architecture of another church in Paris, you won't be disappointed.

http://www.acparis.org/
65, Quai d'Orsay
75007 Paris, France
+33 1 45 56 09 50

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

VICTOIRE 1945

2009-05-08T00:46:00.000-07:00

Holiday number deux for May is Victoire 1945 which celebrates the surrender of Nazi Germany thereby the end of WWII for France. The festivities include a procession of the military on the Champs-Elysées ending symbolically at the Arc de Triomphe. The sitting president lays a wreath on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier which rests underneath the arch.

As it is a holiday, once again be prepared that most of Paris is shut down. Some cafés will be open, but you can pretty much forget going shopping or to a museum on May 8th. If you live here, make sure to have enough food in the fridge on the 7th as the grocery stores will certainly be closed. Also, take note that public transportation is on a minimal schedule.

Seize the opportunity to take a walking tour in Paris. English speaking tours such as Classic Walks Paris are open for business today. So, arm yourself with your walking shoes and get your peepers ready to see this spectaular city. The Eifel Tower never looked so good!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

MAY DAY and MUGUETS

2009-05-01T05:35:00.000-07:00

The first of May brings the first holiday of many during the month. La Fête du Travail or Labor Day celebrates the worker just as our Labor Day does in September.

While in Paris, be prepared to not have too much going on that day. There are a few restaurants and a few bakeries open, but pretty much everything else closes down.

You will however find a sea of tables lining up on the sidewalks with vendors selling muguets, pronounced moo-gay or if you prefer English, lily of the valley. The flower symoblizes spring, sweetness and a return to happiness. The muguet's vendors are also not taxed on the first of May by the French government. So, expect a lot people trying to hawk the flower. Be prepared to pay anywhere from about 1-5 euros or so...cash only, of course.

Historically speaking, in 1561, King Charles IX received some muguets as a good luck charm and the good luck charm worked. From that moment on, the ladies at court received muguet on May 1st. The tradition lives on and ladies, expect to give a kiss to the person that gives you muguet!

Unless you plan on eating in a restaurant, plan ahead to have enough food on stock in the fridge the day before. Pack a lunch and hang out at one of the parks. Today is not about working. It is about relaxing and enjoying the beautiful spring day...and don't forget your muguets!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

A FIELD TRIP TO CHARTRES

2009-04-25T00:14:00.001-07:00

When visiting Paris, take a field trip to Chartres. It’s about an hour by train and will only enhance your excursion. Chartres is most noted because it houses the gothic cathedral Notre Dame de Chartres (yep, there is more than one Notre Dame or ‘Our Lady’ out there.) Chartres Cathedral is probably most well known in the U.S. for its UN-matching front towers created 400 years apart. However, there are two things that make this Cathedral more spectacular than most others. For one, it houses the oldest most intact set of stained glass windows in the world; 152 to be exact and secondly, tour guide Malcolm Miller has been acquainting English speaking tourists with its spectacular history for 51 years. After a half century, he is frankly part of the Chartres iconography and makes the trip all the more entertaining.

There is a reason why Miller has been included in all the travel guides for years. As an author and an expert on the his beloved cathedral, he will surely add to your Chartres experience and is well worth every centime. Out of any tour I have ever taken anywhere, he truly gives the best. Even after a half century of study he claims he is still learning about the building. Thankfully for us, he never stops learning and never stops teaching. Inevitably there will be someone in your group who has taken his tour in the past. If you are as lucky as I have been to have taken his tour before, feel free to take it again and again. He has such a wealth of information that each visit will be like the first.

As the name implies, the cathedral is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Now a tourist site, Chartres was once a place of pilgrimage for many Christians especially during the Middle Ages. It houses various relics; including a now scientifically documented 2,000 year old cloth apparently worn by the Virgin during the birth of Christ. Whether it truly was worn by her or not one can’t help but be impressed that the fabric is indeed 20 centuries old.

Extraordinary stained glass windows align the building; many of which have been cleaned allowing the full vibrancy of color to captivate the viewer. Each panel of glass depicts a story from the Bible allowing the common man from a millennia ago to share in the church’s biblical study. The stories have been lost to most of us in the modern world, but Miller fills us in on the gaps.

If walking a labyrinth is something that interests you, visit Chartres on a Friday. The extra seating that normally covers the area is removed in order for those to walk in contemplation on one of the most famous labyrinths in Europe.

Just a note about the cathedral, it is in the process of a major overhaul and scaffolding hinders part of the altar from view, but don’t let that stop you from visiting. Most of the building is in plain sight and the good news is that centuries of grime and soot are being carefully lifted in order to eventually display the once radiant painted colors of the statuary and the cathedral itself. On May 12th, 2009 the first unveiling of two areas will be presented to the public. I was able to capture a peak of a few test spots in the church where both cream and red were peaking through the dirt. I can only imagine what the finished product will look like and look forward to my next journey there.

Tours with Malcolm Miller every day (except Sundays and while he is traveling) at:
Noon and 2:45
Meet in front of the gift shop near the entrance.
10€, CASH ONLY
millerchartres@aol.com

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

NAUGHTY PARIS

2009-04-20T01:14:00.000-07:00

If you are a woman enamored with the City of Light who wishes to explore your racier side, then Naughty Paris: A Ladies Guide to the Sexy City might just be what you are looking for. Filled with colorful photographs throughout this provocative book, Heather Stimmler-Hall takes a sensual leap from the normal travel guide in creating a glimpse into Parisian erotica that entices the femme fatale in all of us.

Learn about the role sexuality has played throughout Paris’ history and how this passion has played in creating the current rules for cultural flirtations.

See museums in a different light. Various works are pointed out in the book with a special mention for their suggestive content. You will be titillated at the Louvre and Orsay as you never have before.

Find the perfect stores to buy sexy ensembles, from designer clothes to high heeled shoes and of course the all important under garment to satisfy any man’s sexual fantasies. Or do you need a little makeover? From make-up to hair and then to clothes, have an expert bring out the inner goddess in you.

Or perhaps you desire to be pampered with a spa package at some of the luxurious spas in Paris. After a day of relaxation, your coquette button can be turned on for a night of passion.

If you are a woman on the verge of making your travel plans or simply miss the show Sex and the City, you won't want to miss reading this book. Whether you are looking to wet your whistle at a sexy bar or wish to accommodate your intimate rendez-vous in a provocative hotel, Naughty Paris answers all your sensual curiosities. Pack your stilettos and stockings and leave your tennis shoes behind. Paris is calling the sensual maven in you.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

RUE MOUFFETARD

2009-04-19T02:01:00.000-07:00

Progress. As we near the second decade of the 21st century, the world has become a smaller place. A half a century ago, only the wealthy traveled across oceans to foreign nations. Now, it’s commonplace for any of us to spend time sipping champagne in Paris. In addition, the advent of the information superhighway has made communication as simple as a click of a button. From microwaves to cell phones, we are surrounded with a plethora of amenities that make our daily lives easier. These are all good things. With our fast paced lives, however, we have seemed to have replaced quality with convenience.

The French are no exception to this rule. Traditionally speaking, the French have always shopped for their food on a daily basis, choosing fresh ingredients for their meals from specialty shops and kiosks. Dining is meant to be a sensual experience which means the preparation of a meal is done with only the highest quality products that are as fresh as possible, s’il vous plaît.

Unfortunately, some of this tradition has been lost with the never ending supply of supermarches (grocery stores) which have sprung up in the last few decades replacing the once ubiquitous specialty shops. Why go to a cheese shop, when you can find cheese at the grocery store? The problem with convenience is twofold; not only do grocery stores lack the quantity of items found in specialty shops, the items found are sold for the masses and may not have the same quality as a specialty shop.

Thankfully Rue Mouffetard is an answer to our escape from convenience. Situated in the fifth arrondissiment near the Pantheon, this strip reminds us how it must have felt to shop in centuries past. The small cobblestone road may not be great for high heels, but its charm is unmistakable. Mouffetard (moof-tar) is aligned with specialty fromagers selling delectable cheeses from around France, wine shops, bouchers (butchers), crepe makers, restaurants and a slew of fruit and vegetable kiosks fill out this historical street.

Walk leisurely arm and arm with your sweetheart as you stroll down the rue. Fill your own large canvas bag with savory items from each store you visit. Pick up a bottle of wine from the wine seller, cheese from the cheese seller, freshly cut salami to your specifications from the butcher, a baguette from the baker and the required dessert from the pattiserie. Take your newly purchased goodies along with a blanket and enjoy a romantic picnic at nearby Jardin Luxembourg (a 10 minute walk from Mouffetard).

Leave the rushing behind at home and savor the pleasures of simplicity. Instead of filling your sojourn with running from one touristy spot to the next, spend some time to experience life at an unhurried pace. Go ahead and touch the fruit, smell the flowers, see the flow of others enjoying their excursion, listen to the sounds coming from the classical guitarist and taste the various food products that capture your attention. Your senses and your soul long for the gentle experience of Rue Mouffetard.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

PARIS ON THE CHEAP

2009-04-15T23:54:00.000-07:00

Let’s face it; Paris is one of the most expensive cities in the world; especially with the exchange rate as it is. However, there are a few tricks to getting around damaging your pocket book too badly…

FOOD:

I have to say, it never ceases to surprise me how cheap the grocery stores (supermarché) are here. Food, detergent, floss; everything is so much less than it is in San Francisco. So, if you are looking to save a few bucks, this is the best way to go.

Sandwiches are a little different then our sandwiches, but boy are they tasty and only a few euros! Served in a baguette, you can find all kinds of pre-made lunches in any number of boulangeries (bakeries) in Paris. Pack a sandwich and a drink and head off to one of the many parks to enjoy your meal or eat on the run as so many Parisians do.

There are several kiosks around Paris serving crepes. Try one or try all, but definitely try the nutella crepe. Your sweet tooth will be delighted you did.

For a sit down meal, check out the chalkboards outside the ubiquitous cafes. They all list the ‘plat du jour’ (daily special). It will inevitably be something fab on the cheap, usually around 10-15 euros. Ask for carafe d’eau or carafe of water in English and save yourself the price of a drink. For pronunciation think of the Simpson’s…it’s cuh-rawf DOH.

TO DO:

Notre Dame and all the many churches in Paris all have free entries. You can certainly donate money and they appreciate even a few coins in the donation box, but it is not necessary. Audio guides are extra, but hey if you just want to check out some astounding architecture and art on your own, this is the way to do it.

Champ de Mars is the park where that somewhat famous structure the Eifel Tower lives. Bring your packed lunch here and enjoy the view. Note for women, as in any park in any big city, please be careful or preferably avoid all together at night. You don’t want the creepy crawlies to get in the way of your trip.

Jardin de Luxembourg, Jardin des Tuileries, Jardin des Plantes are a few more parks in the city worth checking out. Parisians are big on their parks and the locals always take a break from the hustle and bustle here.

The French love their art and there are plenty of museums in Paris to show for it. They likely will have one free day a month. Just check out their websites to see which day it is.

On the weekend visit the Sacré-Cœur area. See the church, the exterior of the famous Moulin Rouge (red windmill) and see the plethora of local artists trying to hawk their creations. Some of them are actually quite good and not much money either.

Walk the Champs-Elysees. While everything is expensive on the Champs, walking is free. It's nice to see Haussman's grand boulevard. It's simply huge. While you are there, check out Napolean's Arc de Triomphe at the end of the main part of the street. All the parades, marathons and that little known race Lance Armstrong likes so much known as the Tour de France end up here.

Walk, walk, walk…did I say walk? Walking saves you the metro fare, it gives you exercise to burn the calories from the plat du jour you just ate and more importantly you can actually see the incredible architecture that is simply everywhere.

TO STAY:

Why not trade homes with a French person? You can each live the way the other lives for the time you are in the other’s respective country…and of course it’s free.

Stay in a hostel. You have to share rooms, but for young people this could be the way to go.

Travel off season. Rates are always cheaper when you travel in fall and winter. Just remember to pack your long underwear and scarves. It’s a bit nippy.

While Paris is not cheap, it can be done cheaply if you so desire. Enjoy the City of Light and Happy ‘non’-spending!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

l'ORANGERIE

2009-04-08T22:26:00.001-07:00

Yes, I know. Before a few weeks ago, I had never heard of Musée de l’Orangerie either. Well, the secret is out. Situated in the Jardin Tuileries on the opposite side from the Louvre, l’Orangerie displays art from primarily the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It is Impressionism Heaven.

Late in the artist Claude Monet’s life, he began to go blind. As an artist that fact might seem to put him in a state of panic, but the man continued to paint nonetheless. His style may have changed dramatically in his later years, but posterity can be nothing short of grateful.

Step into the museum and one is greeted by some of Monet’s spectacular Waterlillies (Nymphéas in French) painted from this time frame. Situated on curved walls designed specifically for each of his paintings, these gigantic works of art (21.5” x 64.5”) simply take the onlookers breath away. Sit on the benches, stand back at a distance and look upon the paintings up close. You will see a different perspective from each vantage point.

Also housed in the museum is the collection accumulated by Paul Guillaume and Jean Walter. A sampling from artist’s such as Renoir, Modigliani, Picasso and Soutine all delight the viewer’s eye.

Open everyday, except Tuesdays, May 1st and Christmas Day from 9am to 6pm. Guided tours in English every Monday and Thursday at 2:30 for € 8.00. Audio guides are also available for € 5.00 (€ 3.50 reduced rate).

Entry fee:
Full rate: € 7.50
Reduced rate: € 5.50
Free on the first Sunday of the month.
Be prepared to wait in line on the free day. It may seem long and appear to not be moving at all because they only allow people to enter in intervals. But even a long line goes fast for they allow large amounts of people inside when they do, approximately every five minutes or so.

Bring food and drink to enjoy after your visit in the Tuilieries gardens themselves. Chairs align several ponds and on a nice day you can relax your weary feet and enjoy a lovely view of the surroundings.

For more information visit their website at information-orangerie@culture.gouv.fr. The English link is located on the upper right hand corner.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

NOTRE DAME de PARIS

2009-03-30T05:28:00.000-07:00

You can’t come to Paris and miss Notre Dame. It's a must see. The ubiquitous churches and cathedrals that are sprinkled all over Europe are all lovely and have there unique charm and sense of wisdom held over from the ages. But, there is something magical about ‘Our Lady’. This gem began its story in 1163 when construction began. After nearly a thousand years, it still retains its original glory.

This gothic cathedral known for its flying buttresses on the exterior of the building is a site for sore eyes. For the best view of the façade stand at the end of St. Michel on the Quai and turn towards the great cathedral. You won't be sorry you did. I showed this particular vantage point to a French woman recently and she was amazed at how glorious it was and the fact that she never paid attention before. While at this corner don’t forget to turn around and look at the fountain where St. Michel raises his sword in a commanding stance. St. Michel is Archangel Michael for us English speakers, by the way.

Don't just look at the front of the cathedral. Each side is interesting and beautiful. The flying buttresses alone are worth the view. You will also want to make a trip at night. The cathedral is lit and offers a completely different perspective. It could inspire romance in the most hardened of souls.

Depending on what time of year you come, the lines can be enormous. The good news is that it does keep moving, so you won't have too long to wait. There is no entrance fee to the main part of the cathedral. However, if you choose to see the crypts, towers or special exhibits you can expect a fee. You can also opt for an audio guide for a small fee, as well.

When you first start circling the interior of the cathedral make sure to give a nod to the statue of Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc). Where once this woman was excommunicated and murdered by the church she is now deemed a saint.

As you continue towards the altar of the cathedral, don’t forget to turn towards the back of the room and look up. Behind the Great Organ is the original stained glass window. It is très fantastique! The colors are as rich as an oil painting. Unfortunately, most of the stained glass in the rest of the cathedral was replaced due to wars and the like, but this window and one other at the side are original. You will be able to notice the difference. The original glass is nothing short of spectacular.

I highly recommend attending the Gregorian Mass on Sunday at 10. Even if you are not Catholic (I am not) you can still stroll around the church and listen to the ethereal sounds of the Gregorian Chants. They will be sure to bring you back in time to a bygone era.

Tours are available on Wednesdays at 2:00 sharp. Meet underneath the Great Organ in the back of the church, between the two entrances. There are many groups meeting there at the same time, so look for the person with the sign that says English. The tours are free, but if you are so inclined to leave “a trinket or two” afterwards, the proceeds go towards educating children. The tour guide knows about the history of the cathedral and will share highlights with you for an hour.

The cathedral is open from 8:00 am to 6:45 pm daily (7:15 pm on the weekends).

For more information, please visit their site at www.notredamedeparis.fr/ and hit the ‘welcome’ link. It will be in English.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

BLANQUETTE de VEAU

2009-03-28T05:16:00.000-07:00

On every excursion to Paris I have wanted to plunge into trying the local cuisine. Blanquette de veau has been on my ‘must try’ list for quite some time now, but I never managed to get around to it…that is until a few days ago. If you are a vegetarian than read no further, this will not be for you. If you do dip into the carnivorous zone, then please carry on.

I stopped into one of the seemingly ubiquitous Parisian cafés on Blvd. St. Germain de Prés. Blanquette de veau was the special of the day posted on the outside chalkboard and I couldn’t resist. For 10.50€ I could sample a bit of French tradition.

I sat at the window seat in order to fulfill my obligation of people watching. Another cute guy had just walked by the window when my plate arrived.

The aroma was delectable. Buttery white cream sauce topped over lamb shoulder. I was a skeptic about eating the shoulder from any animal, but the meat simply melted in mouth. Rice and salad finished off the plate and thankfully the French don’t skimp on the cream sauce. There was enough to eat in every bite with a little bit left over to scrape the plate with bread.

Don’t worry about my table manners. While it isn’t done in fine restaurants the French all scrape their plate with the bread while in a café.

This dish is often served with carrots, mushrooms, rice or potatoes. Whatever it’s served with I will be sure to order it again!

So throw out your diets while you are here and sample some of the local cuisine. Your taste buds and your tummy will be glad you did.

Bon appetit!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

LES CROISSANTS AUX AMANDE

2009-03-24T00:34:00.000-07:00

Everyone knows what a croissant is. However, you haven’t tried a croissant until you have tried one in France. They are different; much lighter and fluffier…a piece of Heaven. Croissants are all made with butter, but if the sign says “croissant beure” the beure simply means butter…get that one; the more buttery the better.

Now, after you have your mandatory croissant, you may want to venture out and get a croissants aux amande or two (that’s almond croissant to you and me). If the croissant is a bit of Heaven, then the croissant aux amande is a bit of heaven to the 2nd power. It’s amazing! I probably would have never purchased it myself had I seen it in a pattiserie, but the French know what to buy. My friend who is a local bought several for us and after trying it and savoring every bite I only wanted more.

A croissant aux amande is made with the leftover croissants from the previous day. When I was told that, I was skeptical about taking the first bite, but again the French know what they are doing when it comes to their food. Filled with almond cream and topped with more almonds and powdered sugar, you can’t go wrong.

Make sure to visit the pattiserie (bakery) with a line. The locals know where to go and a line means the food is good. Don’t worry the line will go fast and your croissant will be worth the wait. Your sweet tooth will be glad you did.

Bon apetit!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Dining Etiquette 101 a la Française

2009-03-10T10:17:00.000-07:00

You are in the City of Lights and are invited to the home of a French person for a fabulous meal. You are excited at the prospect. You are seated at the table anxiously waiting for the arrival of the traditional French cuisine. The water is poured and after about five minutes you are critiqued for the atrocious table manners you have.

MOI, atrocious table manners?!? Being raised by my mother who not only trained her children well by taking us out to a formal restaurant at least once a week to practice our dining etiquette; as well as practicing proper table manners daily while dining at home, I was utterly stunned by the hostess's playful reprimand. I mean we always had a water goblet and wine glass (albeit filled with milk) along with our individual salt and paper shakers at each place setting at home growing up. My napkin is always nicely laid in my lap along with the hand that is not being used at the moment. I know the rules. That is I know the American rules. Putting my hand on my lap was my first French faux pas.

My first lesson for the day was that while sitting at a French table one must show their hands on top of the table at all times. There was a debate at the table why this was the case. One person thought that the reason behind this rule was so that you don’t touch yourself in an inappropriate place while seated at the table. The hostess disagreed, but I personally was rooting for the “don’t touch yourself in an inappropriate place” theory. After only a short time, my arms were tired. It is not easy playing by the "show the hands" rule.

No elbows on the table; that of course is the same for us, with the exception of crossing the arms in front of the plate after each course. At least my arms would have a small reprieve.

The freshly baked bread was beckoning to me as it was sitting right in front of me. As I reached out to cut myself a slice, I was quickly told to STOP. Only the host or hostess may cut the bread. They are in charge of making sure everyone had everything they needed. Faux pas number deux.

After the glorious homemade pumpkin and cous cous quiche with the salad on the side was completed the dishes were taken away for the mandatory fromage course (that’s cheese for you and me). Here comes faux pas number 3…after the bread is cut for you, you do not place it on the dish that is provided for you as I did, spreading the cheese on top of it. No, you put it above the left side of your plate on the table. Whoa that one freaked me out.

Drum roll please, faux pas number 4 is coming. The guest cuts the cheese as you would a round cake, cutting it in triangles from the center and placing that piece on to the small plate provided. Ahhh, I blew that one. Then you tear a bite size piece of the bread that is sitting on the table and place it on the plate finally putting a bit of cheese on that bit of bread to be placed eventually in the mouth. Hallelulia, after all that work, the cheese finally made it into my mouth!

Oh and there is no second chances with the cheese platter either. Take what you want the first time around or lose out altogether. That means you either only have a small taste of each cheese in the hopes that you will be satisfied (or at least pretend to be satisfied) OR risk taking a chance that you will actually enjoy everything you take, because you better eat everything once it is on your plate...no pushing food to the side of the plates in this country.

One mustn’t forget about the fork and knife. Left hand carries the upside down fork and the right hand carries the knife. Don’t cut your food with the fork…no no, that would be against another rule written in the great etiquette handbook.

While we are at it there should be a mention of how a place setting looks. Plate is centered in front of the guest as it would be at home. Large knife to the right, fork to the left and on the table above the plate will rest a spoon or desert fork and possibly a cheese knife lying horizontally across the table. The glass is centered on the table behind this bit of silverware towards the center of the table, not to the right of the plate as we do.

After a seemingly never ending pile of mistakes, I made it through the meal in tact with a few laughs and with more information about the culture than when I started. So, take out your pen and paper and take many notes before dining in France with the locals. Remember when in Rome do as the Romans do and when in Paris do as the Parisians do. It’s more fun that way.

Bon appetit!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

The Da Vinci Code Walk

2009-03-07T01:23:00.000-08:00

Two years ago, after finishing my trip to Paris, I visited London. It was in London where I discovered that Paris offered walking tours around the city including one that explored the sites from the book The Da Vinci Code. I am enamored with this book that I read in only three days and was disappointed I missed the tour while I was there. I only hoped my next visit to Paris would afford me the opportunity to take part in this journey. Thankfully, it did.

The guided English speaking walking tour of the Da Vinci Code sites is offered by Classic Walks in Paris. They offer several tours and this is one of them. Our tour guide, Casey, was from Texas, so English is her native tongue.

You meet your tour guide in front of the Ritz in Place Vendôme. My only critique was that she wasn’t carrying a sign that announced she was the tour guide. I was five minutes late and I thought I might have missed it. While sitting for a moment, I overheard two women speaking English. After asking if they were waiting for the tour as well, I was nicely surprised to discover that this small group of two was the tour. So, make sure to ask the people standing in the Place if they are part of the tour.

The journey begins at the Ritz Hotel because this is where Robert Langdon is woken up by a police officer from his sleep to discover that Jacques Saunièr, the curator of the Louvre whom Langdon was supposed to meet earlier in the evening, had been murdered.

On our tour, the drama of the book is unfolded as well as the discrepancies the book makes to reality. Take the tour to find out what they are.

Not only did she talk about the book, but the sites themselves. Ernest Hemmingway practically stationed himself at the bar in the Ritz, which has now been renamed for him. Coco Chanel lived in the hotel for years and commuted only a few hundred feet to her shop in the Place. Napoleon’ s column in the middle of the Place had been torn down by the artist Courbet only to be put back up again. Courbet was to pay for his tearing down of the column, but died before making the first payment.

Fortunately, for me, Casey was a French history layperson. I have been a history buff myself since I was six years old, but my French history is a bit rusty. I was able to ask her lots of historical questions during our tour and she was only happy to fill in the blanks.

Our tour included a visit to the Tuileries Garden, The Louvre, Pont des Arts, St. German-de- Prés and St. Sulpice, which are all highlighted characters in Dan Brown’s masterpiece.

If you like to walk; if you are enamored with The Da Vinci Code and want to learn a little about French history and its architecture, I suggest you take this trip. Simply put on your walking shoes and strut your stuff with your guide for a couple of hours. You will be happy you did.

http://classicwalksparis.com/paris/tours
20€
Reservations possible, but not required.
Daily tours start at 10:00 am daily (March 1-October 31)
Duration: 2 hours and 1.65 miles

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Le Musée Rodin

2009-03-02T00:12:00.001-08:00

Considering I wrote my thesis in college on Auguste Rodin, I don’t think I could ever get enough of his ubiquitous works. He helped to define 20th century art with his creations. Thankfully, he authorized several castings, even after his death, of many of his great works so that all around the world can share in the profundity of his works. While visiting Paris, one can see his works housed in one collection.

Located in the Hôtel Biron in Paris, a collection of Auguste Rodin’s finest works are housed here. For a mere 4,00 € you can rent an audioguide that will share information about Rodin’s works as well as the history of the building.

The home was originally built between 1728 and 1730 for a wig maker named Abraham Peyrenc de Moras who lived there only until 1732 at the time of his death. In 1753 the building was sold to the Maréchal de Biron, which gave the home its name. Eventually, the building was meant to be demolished, but it was rented out inexpensively to artists and writers. In 1911, Rodin offered his collection of art to the state only if it was dedicated to his own museum at the Hôtel Biron. And so it is because of Rodin that we are able to enjoy his works in this location.

The home sits on 3 hectares of land, where one can enjoy a leisurely stroll through the gardens to see Rodin’s larger works. You will first happen on The Burghers of Calais when entering the gardens. Visit The Gates of Hell which incorporates smaller versions of many of his great works such as The Thinker, The Three Shades and others on its two panels. Ugolino and his Children is beautifully situated in the middle of a pond. And the infamous Balzac among others are also resting peacefully in the gardens.

Inside the hotel are two levels of primarily marble and bronze works by Rodin. There are casts of certain sculptures. For example, visit the room upstairs which shows the evolution of the Balzac sculpture. Rodin originally portrayed him looking like a man, but through time he created more of Balzac’s spiritual formation. One critic at the time, offended by the piece actually said that this was the first time he ever saw brains on the outside of one’s head. While it is traditionally not a beautiful piece, it does peak an interest to the viewer for its inner representation of the writer.

The Kiss is located downstairs and is certainly a favorite. This sensuous piece inspires lovers young and old and is one of Rodin’s most famous sculptures. It is presented here in both marble as well as its terracotta cast.

One of the most famous sculptures of all time is thankfully housed at the Hotel. The bronze casting of The Thinker is located in the garden with a smaller version located upstairs in the house. This impressive piece inspires not only students and intellects, but all who appreciate art. One wonders what this man is pondering, but the truth is it doesn’t matter. He is simply thinking as we all do.

One of Rodin’s students and lovers, Camille Claudel, has one room dedicated to her works. Rodin insisted that she have a room dedicated in his museum to her works. I find this fascinating since their relationship didn’t end well. Camille sank into the darkness of insanity and had to be institutionalized for much of her adult life. If you are interested in seeing the adaption of Rodin and Claudel’s life together, Isabelle Adjani and Gerard Depardieu star in a fantastic film that I highly recommend entitled Camille Claudel.

Whether you are interested in his small works or large, Le Musée Rodin should be on your list of must sees.

Le Musée Rodin costs 6,00 €. However, if you visit on the first Sunday of the month it is free. It is open every day except Mondays.

Summer Opening Hours (April to September):
Museum and Boutique: 9.30 a.m. to 5.45 p.m.
Hôtel Biron at 5h45 p.m.
Garden closes at 6.45 p.m.
Last entry at 5.15 p.m.

Winter Opening Hours (October to March):
Museum and Boutique: 9.30 a.m. to 4.45 p.m.
Hôtel Biron at 4h45 p.m.
Garden closes at 5 p.m.
Last entry at 4.15 p.m.

Address:
79 Rue de Varenne
75007 Paris
Telephone: 01 44 18 61 10
METRO : Varenne

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

IS THERE A DOCTOR IN THE HOUSE?

2009-02-28T00:19:00.000-08:00

Without getting much sleep for a week due to having the most horrendous cough of my life, I decided a visit to the doctor was in order. I don’t have any health insurance in France so I was concerned the prices would shoot through the roof, but at that point it didn’t matter. I was officially sick and needed medical care.

I was taken to a friend’s physician. As I was waiting for the doctor, I read every poster and sign in the waiting room. The very last poster I came to announced that an adult patient pays only 22 € for an appointment. I asked my friend if that was true for everyone even if you weren't a French citizen. I was nicely surprised that it was true. 22 € to see a doctor; it was a miracle! If you are French you are actually reimbursed for the 22 € from the state, so it ends up actually being free, but I certainly wasn’t complaining about the cost for me.

The doctor examined me and I had bronchitis. Well, that explained the cough. He wrote out my prescription and I headed to the pharmacy.

Six boxes of various medications were put into a bag. I was certain it would be several hundred euros. Once again, I was nicely surprised. If I were French it would have been less than 10 €. As a non-French citizen it was only 30 €. That’s 30 € without any health insurance!

I wondered how the healthcare system was being paid for. It turns out that an average French citizen pays 8.75% of their paycheck to the healthcare system. For those in management who make more money they will pay a slightly higher percentage. In addition, the employer pitches in another 12.8% per employee. That is a very low percentage considering every person in France is covered.

My health insurance back home was $420 per month and it didn’t cover everything. Granted I am self-employed, but even while I worked for a company both the employer and myself were paying higher rates to the insurance company.

I have discovered that the new French president, Sarkozy, wants to eliminate the French healthcare system. Costs are too high, he says. The truth is the people are paying for their healthcare and the people like the system. Sarkozy should take note of what the people want and leave a good thing alone. I only hope the rest of the world pays attention to the French system and copies it. Imagine if everyone on the planet was actually covered for all their medical treatments. It would be a good thing indeed.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

BRRR, IT'S COLD!

2009-02-10T09:38:00.000-08:00

“The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” Mark Twain said that, but I don’t think he ever spent a winter in France. This is my first winter experience here. Today it made it as high as +2C. Since I have been here it has been as low as -10C, that’s 17.6 Fahrenheit for you and me. The weather here was a shock to my senses and I am here to announce it is officially cold!

I thought I was so smart by packing all my winter clothes before my trip. Wool coats filled my large suitcase. My boots, scarves and gloves came along too. My clothes which would be perfectly warm during a San Francisco winter are not warm enough here. For those of you from the New York, Chicago or other traditionally snow filled areas of the U.S. the weather here will be par for the course for you. But if you are from California, be prepared. Pack long underwear. Bring enough socks to be able to wear two per day. Preferably one of them should be wool. Make sure your coat is appropriate for freezing weather. My wool coats which are appropriate for California winters are most definitely thinner than a Parisian's wool coat.

I wore my first fur coat last night and for the first time since I arrived was warm. Being from San Francisco where fur wearers will be egged from animal rights activists, I have never worn one. I never understood why anyone from California would wear one anyway. They are beautiful, but totally unnecessary at home. However, I truly understand why those in colder climates wear them. They are a life saver here. To appease my own animal rights instincts, I simply sent the appropriate thank you's in my mind to the animals who provided my warmth.

Apparently 2009 has been an unusually cold winter here in France. I have also been told that it usually snows only once every few years. When it does snow the French are surprised and not prepared with snow tires and the like. In the last six weeks, it has snowed twice. The first time the snow didn’t melt for several days the second time this week it melted on contact with the ground. It is gorgeous, but unless it melts when it hits the ground, snow boots are a must.

Come in the winter, the sales are here, the snow is beautiful and the touristy crowds of June are not here yet…just be properly dressed.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Le Petit Palais

2009-02-02T01:12:00.000-08:00

Are you tired of the lines at the Louvre and Orsay, but still need your museum fix while in Paris? Located in the 8th arrondissement directly across the street from Le Grand Palais, Le Petit Palais collection is the perfect solution for you. Built by Charles Girault for the World’s Fair of 1900; the building itself with its grand architectural appointments is a perfect example of Beaux Arts architecture and is a magnificent work of art unto itself.

Spend more at lunch on the Champs because this museum won’t cost you a cent. Paris is expensive especially when comparing the euro to the dollar. So, take advantage of giving your pocketbook a break. Though the museum is free, don’t forget to pick up a ticket just the same. Look for the table in the grand entry area and an employee will gladly give you one. Hand your ticket to the security guard in the red jacket and you will be on your way.

Take a moment to notice the intricate tiled floors as well as the decorative ceilings. Believe me you won’t be disappointed. They are as much part of the beauty of this museum as the works the building is holding.

Le Petit Palais has a little bit of everything. Its permanent collection holds 45,000 pieces and displays approximately 1,300 at a time. Explore a bit of history from Antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, on through to the art of the early 20th century. From decorative arts to furniture and jewelry to paintings and pottery, you can get a little taste of whatever your artistic palate is craving.

You may see a group of youngsters sitting Indian style with their teachers getting a head start on their artistic education. Watching six year old children enthusiastically giving all their attention to the teacher’s description of the museum’s collection brought a smile to my face and soul and most assuredly would do the same for you. No wonder the French appreciate the finer things in life. They are introduced to it from such an early age.

I personally delighted in seeing the exceptionally beautiful glass vases displayed in the first room designed by Tiffany and his contemporaries around the turn of the 20th century. Each individual vase is propped on a podium under glass. So, you can give each a close look at any angle. I have never seen such an extensive collection of glass art from this time period in one location and it is certainly a must see.

To get there, start at the Place du Concord traversing on the Champs-Élysées towards the Arch de Triomphe. After only short walk you will arrive at Avenue Winston Churchill. Turn left and voila you have two museums to visit. If you still need more from your museum fix walk across the street to Le Grand Palais afterwards. Then continue your trek down the Champs for lunch or dinner.

Just another perfect Parisian day!

Le Petit Palais
Avenue Winston Churchill
75008, Paris
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm
Metro: Lines 1 & 13, Champs-Elysees Clemenceau Station

Cost: FREE
Audioguides available (for a small fee)

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Le French Kiss

2009-01-27T01:45:00.001-08:00

David Letterman extorts his top ten list each evening. Here is mine:

“What are the top ten reasons for coming to Paris?”

#10 The Louvre is certainly an experience within itself. Plan to spend several days in this former royal palace. When they say it’s big, they aren’t kidding.

#09 Musee d’Orsay holds the 19th century art that the Louvre doesn’t have. The building itself was a former train station and is a magnificent work in architecture.

#08 Musee Rodin…The house is a bit crowded, but check out the garden. His larger works are outside and set amongst the lush jardin.

#07 Walking, walking, walking. Did I say walking? Explore the streets without the guidebook and find much more richness than you would otherwise.

#06 THE FOOD. What can I say, the food is marvelous. I can’t pass by a pattiserie without ordering one of the scrumptious items in the window.

#05 Window displays. Parisians turn window displays into the ultimate art form.

#04 The Eifel Tower. One can’t miss the icon known around the world. Check it out during the day and again in the evening. The lit tower against the dark sky is worth a look or two.

#03 Shopping like a Parisian. Buy cheese from the fromager (cheese shop); fruit from the fruitier (fruit shop), meat from the boucher (butcher), etc. They are the experts in each of their fields. Leave the supermarket shopping at home.

#02 Notre Dame. Whether you are Catholic or not, come visit one of the most beautiful representations of Gothic architecture anywhere in the world.

And the number one reason for coming to Paris…drum roll please…

#01 Everyone makes out all over the place in Paris!

Seeing the amount of people kissing each other here in public is a site upon itself. Parents drop off their kids at school and they kiss each other as the child goes into class. Visit any of the numerous parks and watch couples kissing. Take a stroll down the street and witness more people kissing. Even the French tutorial program on PBS, French in Action shows two people kissing on a bench during the credits.

Just last night on the train I sat in section of four chairs facing each other on the train and a young couple decided that facing me while only inches away was the perfect place for them to express their lust for each other…My goodness it wasn’t a party. I am old enough to be their mother! My point is they don’t care if you are there or not. The kissing is what is important for them. The French are Latins after all and there isn’t a puritanical bone in site.

Let’s face it they don’t call it the French kiss for nothing. After the initial shock wears off, one realizes it is nice that the French are so demonstrative in their public displays of affection. We Americans could learn a thing or two here. What makes public displays of affection taboo at home? Yes, people occasionally do it, but it’s more like they are getting away with something. The French express their natural inclination wherever they are without worrying what others think. There is nothing to worry about after all…it’s just a kiss.

I must admit that as an American I am a bit uncomfortable with the mandatory kissing of each cheek when you meet a friend or even if you are just meeting someone for the first time. After an introduction, expect their face lunging its way into your space for the mandatory two kisses; one on each cheek.

After an uncomfortable exchange after a brunch of kissing some if they lunged first and not kissing others who did not, I decided to take my own advice. I am in France. This is their country. I am packing away the handshake greeting and the discomfort button of kissing a stranger while I am here and do as the French do. Vive la France!

If you plan to visit France and perhaps stay awhile, be prepared to do some kissing, whether it’s the romantic kind or the friendly kind they certainly do a lot of it here.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Sunday Brunch at Le Reservoir

2009-01-25T13:54:00.001-08:00

What does 24€ buy you in Paris? A phenomenal all you can eat Sunday brunch at Le Reservoir. Located in the 11th arrondissiment, it is walking distance from the Bastille Opera.

The unassuming exterior should not hinder you from entering. Like Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz as she steps from the black and white bleakness of her Kansas home into the wonderfully colored Munchkinland for the first time, simply by opening the door at Le Reservoir, your world will change from blasé to beautiful. With the richness of the red walls, ornately framed mirrors and paintings as well as the unmistakable club atmosphere, one can’t help but soak up the ambience and feel a bit more provocative once inside.

Live jazz only enhances the dining experience as the musicians play on the center stage. If you are looking for great jazz in Paris on a Sunday afternoon then you won’t want to miss a dining experience here.

And don’t let the ‘all you can eat’ aspect scare you. This restaurant is not serving merely adequately prepared food served in warmers all day. Only praise can be given to the chef as the fare is nothing short of phenomenal. The rich dark wooded bar area is converted from its evening pourings of cocktails to staging a beautiful buffet. A seemingly never ending array of white porcelain platters and bowls are used to accentuate the cuisine.

From cous cous to croissants; eggs to sausage, homemade tzatziki to pasta along with various seafood and meat platters you are sure to be tempted by every dish. If you are a vegetarian there is plenty for you here. And don’t forget to save room for the extensive desserts and fromage (cheese) to tempt your palate, as well. Maybe a crepe or torte might grab your attention. And for a drink, try a house wine, orange juice and a carafe d’eau (water) to quench your thirst.

For 24€, you can’t go wrong!

Brunches are offered every Sunday from 11:30 to 4:30.

LE RESERVOIR
16, rue de la Forge Royale
75011 Paris
Tel : 0143563960
Website : http://www.reservoirclub.com/

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

The Dress Code

2009-01-24T01:17:00.001-08:00

June rolls in and so do the tourists. They are not hard to miss with the ubiquitous array of t-shirts sporting a collage of advertising. Shorts are worn which easily display white tennis shoes and sports socks. The fanny pack accessorizes the ensemble. And the final touch: drum roll please…cameras hanging off various necks or cell phones propped open ready to be used in a moments notice to shoot pictures of loved ones standing in front of Notre Dame or the Eifel Tower. It couldn’t be more obvious that these people are outsiders if they wore a sign exclaiming, “Here I am. I am a tourist!”

It’s not a bad thing being a tourist. The Parisian economy depends on the influx of visitors to spend their newly exchanged dollars for euros in the various restaurants, sites and shops. It’s also good for the tourist. They can visit museums that are in former chateaux and see thousand year old cathedrals which do not exist at home. Dining at an array of restaurants, cafés and salon de thés are part of the package deal along with traversing the stone streets that hold the history of many who trampled on them before from centuries past.

Tourists also have the extraordinary opportunity to see life from a different point of view. The old adage, “When in Rome do as the Romans do” certainly applies to other parts of the world, as well. Why not take advantage of doing as the French do while in France?

The French have been known for their haute couture since the time of the Sun King, good old Louis XIV. Courtiers in those days tried to out do each other with their fashion and not much has changed in the last in the 300 years since. While people are no longer gallivanting in white wigs and silk, they still have flair with their personal styles.

Some in Paris have the available funds to purchase Valentino and Jean Paul Gauthier, but most do not. Yet, they still manage to make their look have a certain casual elegance that doesn’t seem to be found anywhere else. Silks and ribbons of age-old have been replaced with denim and dark colors. Jeans worn with dark shoes or boots and topped with a lovely blouse or sweater is the ticket here. Not to mention the all important scarf. Scarves are tied in an endless array of knots which should be published in a book somewhere so that the rest of us can copy their ingenuity.

During the summer, the French may wear shorts, but when they do, don’t expect to see khakis. Only dressy shorts perhaps with a cuff will do here.

The French save their tennis shoes and white gym socks for the gym. While comfortable walking shoes are a definite must to make it though a day of walking through the streets of Paris, try an understated dark colored leather walking shoes in lieu of the more noticeable white sneaker.

Fanny packs are another faux pas. Only Americans wear them. If it is your mission in life to be spotted by pickpockets who prey on tourists as their meal ticket, then I recommend wearing a fanny pack. Otherwise, leave it at home.

Part of trying on new countries is to see the world from their perspective. Instead of being a tourist become a traveler. While tourists rush from one site to the next barely able to catch their breath, a traveler soaks in the experience. A traveler wishes to experience life as a local does. How do they shop? How do they eat? How do they wear clothes? By dressing the part you leave an opening that encourages locals to mingle a bit with you. Each piece of this glorious puzzle helps give a real taste of what Paris is all about, if only for a moment. If you look the part, they will want to socialize with you. That is when the real fun starts. Come and enjoy the City of Lights…just do it with a sense of style.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

FRANCE IS ON SALE!

2009-01-22T09:36:00.000-08:00

It’s that time of year again, when everything in Paris is on sale and I mean everything. The ubiquitous signs exclaiming SOLDES (sale) are plastered on every retail window enticing the smart shopper to come in. Entrée s'il vous plaît! Leather jackets, clothes, shoes, furniture, you name it, it can be found at a good price. Twice yearly, in both January and June, France goes on sale. Ok, the actual country isn’t for sale, but its goodies in the retail stores certainly are.

In fact, it is actually illegal for shops to host sales at any other time of the year. Though I am told that sometimes shops can get around this law, it is still nothing like January and June and it's certainly not like the revolving sales that can be found at Victoria's Secret, The Gap and all the rest at home which always have a discount on something.

Stores take advantage while they can at wildly reducing prices 50-60, even 80% off the regular price. All month long during the cold of January and the heat of June you can break out the old credit card and shop till you drop. There are even those that plan their vacations to Paris around the sales.

If your mission is to wear the best fashion has to offer and you just happen to be in Paris anyway, make sure to bring a few extra bucks so that your shopping excursions can truly be enjoyed. And get it while the getting is still good...you only have until the 31st. If you miss it you will have to wait until June. So, while the temperature might be below freezing here, you can still take advantage of your itch to shop while the prices are hot!

And don't forget to bring an empty suitcase with you to cart all the goodies home. If you left your empty suitcase in the closet at home, you could always buy another one here…Believe me, it’s on sale anyway!

Thanks for reading and bon journée!

Check, Please: Just Another Cultural Difference

2009-01-21T10:15:00.000-08:00

When coming into a new country I try to learn a bit about the culture. I am in their territory after all and I would like to make an attempt to play by their rules. As I sat in a café one day, the people sitting next to me were my fellow Americans. They were becoming increasingly irritated that the waiter was not bringing them their bill. “Garçon they screamed; and then once again “Garçon!” Followed by, in English of course, “The service here is terrible! Why haven't you brought us our bill?!" I slapped my forehead and nodded my head in shame. No wonder Americans have such a bad reputation in Europe. Forget that we are in a war that nobody wants, we can’t even be nice to people in their own country.

You see, Americans have had the misfortune of learning the word ‘garçon’ from American movies. 'Garcon" is a old-fashioned term for waiter that could still be used if one is being polite with the proper tone AND by adding s'il vous plaît. The more conventional term for 'garçon' these days, however, is ‘boy’. Everytime this man regurgitated the word, he was saying “Boy, come here,” essentially slapping the waiter in the face.

In addition, the French and other cultures in Europe as well, take pride in their culinary delights. One is not to gulf down an order in the fastest possible manner. One is to savor each bite and each sip of every single course, even if you are merely ordering a cup of coffee. Conversation is also part of the meal, not to mention the art of people watching. That being said, the French want you to enjoy your time at the meal. This is what living is all about to them. They want you to linger. Kicking you out to seat the next person, like we do at home is the farthest thing from their mind. You tell them when you would like to leave by politely asking them for the check, not the other way around. L’addition, s’il vous plait,” (law-dee-sea-ohne see-voo-play) is the simple phrase used.

On another occasion, while sitting in a cafe a woman repeatedly asked the waiter for preservatives for her toast. "Preservatives, preservatives, do you have any preservatives." The embarrased look on the waiter was not understood by the women seated at the table. I explained to the waiter what they wanted and turned to the women to tell them that they kept asking the waiter for a condom. We all had a giggle after their shock wore off. Just keep in mind that all words do not necessarily translate exactly as we hope they do. By the way, the word for preservatives is confiture (cone-fee-tour).

Then there is the other faux pas I hear continuosly from people from the states. They think that raising the octave level of their ENGLISH a few notches will help a non-English speaking person understand them. Where does that come from? If someone yelled in Japanese to you, would you understand it better if you didn’t speak Japanese? Nope, I am pretty sure it's still Japanese and you still wouldn't understand it. It doesn’t take a lot of effort to learn a few words such as ‘please’, ‘thank you’ and ‘do you speak English’ in someone else’s native tongue.

Another cultural idiosyncracy that an American should know is that cab drivers here don’t have a lot of change. Be prepared to have close to the amount of the price of your ride. We often hand $20’s to drivers at home thinking that is a small enough bill for people to have change, but that is not necessarily the case here. It’s not worth having a cab driver become angry at you for not having the correct change. It took three cab rides with the very same experience for me to realize that this was not one rude cab driver, it was a cultural difference. So, take note and learn from my experience.

And by the way, hailing a cab is not done here. Standing on the corner waiving your arms in the air will do no good. You will be waiving forever and passed by many empty cabs until you walk over to the taxi stand and wait your turn for the next taxi to arrive. It will be marked with a sign that says TAXIS.

When walking into a shop say a simple hello to the patron, “Bonjour, Madame,” or “Bonjour, Monsieur.” The usage of madame and monsieur are very big here. Surprise a French patron by using this form of courtesy. They will not expect it from an outsider, but they will appreciate it.

The French are notoriously known in our country for being rude, but the truth is that we are actually the ones being rude to them. Cultural differences are simply that, they are differences. Appreciate them. Don’t look at them as a nuisance. This is part of the education of life, to learn how we interact differently. Learn to go with the flow. Remember, you are a guest in their country. Play by their rules. Being polite will go a long way with the welcoming committee.

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!

Salon de Thé

2009-01-19T01:10:00.001-08:00

There is no doubt about it; the French know how to prepare food. They are never lacking for ambience either. Especially in Paris, there is certainly not a shortage of places to eat. From the kiosks where you can grab a scrumptious sandwich a emporter (to go); to a café where you can have a cup of coffee served with light fare if you so desire. It is here where many sit and people-watch, which is always a delight. If you only have time for one cup of coffee before you have to run, then that works too. Brasseries and bistros used to have differences, but these days they are fairly interchangeable. Like a cafe, you can sit inside or out, while savoring a glass of wine or a beer. The menu tends to be a bit larger. You might find a plat du jour (today’s special) for an excellent price, just check the chalkboard outside. There are restaurants for fine dining which are higher end in the price department. And in between the brasserie/bistro and the restaurant you can also venture into a salon de thé (that’s tea for you and me, but pronounced tay in French).

Yesterday, a friend and I discovered a lovely little salon de thé in the 7th arrondissiment called Thé aux 3 Cerises. Apparently, salon de thés are not often open on Sunday, but this little gem is, so we gave it a whirl. Often salon de thés are known to be a little on the haughty side where middle aged women get dressed in their Sunday best to sip teas with an assortment of well made lunches that are beautifully presented, or perhaps one might choose a delectable dessert that also pleases the eye.

While the food and tea certainly met these expectations, I didn’t feel as though I needed to wear a dress to get in. There was not a stuffy bone in sight. My friend and I chose the window table. We each had our own comfortable couch accross from one another filled with decorative pillows. It was a most relaxing three hours. Yep, we spent three hours there. We actually stayed ten minutes after closing when we were handed the bill. Considering the French never hand over the bill without one asking for it first, it was truly amazing. Even so, the waiter was kind when he handed it to us. He wasn’t impatient with us in the least.

We each ordered our own pot of teas. I am not a big tea drinker myself. In fact, I never drink tea. But I have had a terrible cold and I decided to try some mint tea. I must say it was quite delicious.

We were there in the middle of the afternoon and we couldn’t pass up a couple of desserts either. A lovely chocolate cake, that was much more like mousse served with a raspberry on top while sitting on a coulis of some sort. Mouth watering is how I would describe it. We also shared a lemon torte. Now, I normally won’t eat lemon desserts, but I didn’t want to be rude. I was nicely surprised because this was one of the most delightful desserts I have ever eaten. I think the French can make anything taste good!

Everything was served on white porcelain. We each had our own tea pots filled with our respective teas with matching tea cups, saucers, a small spoon with a tubular packet of sugar. Our desserts were served on long rectangular platters, which allowed the coulis presentation to pop.

It was charmingly decorated, not too stuffy, but more in lines with shabby-chic décor. It was very comfortable and the service was excellent.

My only complaint, which actually was not mine, but my friend's was that our carafe d'eau (water) tasted like it had chlorine in it. With my cold I couldn't taste it, but I will take her word. So, if you want water, order it in a bottle.

If you are looking for a more relaxed salon de thé only a couple of blocks from the Eifel Tower then this is the place to be. If you leave while it’s dark, you will have the added bonus of seeing Le Tour Eifel lit in all its splendor as you step out the door. Fantastique!

Thé aux 3 Cerises
47, avenue de Suffren 75007
Tel : 01-42-73-92-97
METRO: Bir Hakeim

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

2009-01-17T02:33:00.000-08:00

First stop, Charles de Gaulle Airport...or Orly Airport if you prefer. Paris has two international airports to choose from; though I have always flown into and out of CDG. Since Paris is one of the most toured cities in the world, CDG is always hopping. If you plan on arriving on a French holiday (and there are many here) it may be less so, but don't ever count on an empty airport. On my latest excursion, I arrived on New Year's Day and there were a at least thirty people ahead of me in line at customs. The good news was that the line went quickly and I only had to wait for maybe ten minutes max including my time spent with the customs officer.

CDG is fairly easy to navigate, especially considering its size. If you do get lost there are plenty of people who speak English. The French are proud of their language and it is recommended to learn a few basic words like 's'il vous plaît' (prounounced see-voo-play) and 'merci' (mare-see). Another good phrase to know is 'Do you speak English?' 'Parlez-vous anglais, s'il vous plaît?' (par-lay voo-zahn-glay see-voo-play?) If you treat the French with respect by attempting to use their language, they will be more than helpful to you.

From here you can take a cab, rent a car or take the train into Paris proper. Cabs are pricey, but they get you door to door. Depending on how much luggage you have, it is the easiest way to go. Typical prices are 50-80 euros from CDG. You can ask the driver beforehand too. 'C'est combien a Paris?' (say cohm-bee-on ah peh-ree?)

For the more daring soul you can rent a car. You just need your American license. However, it is strongly recommended that you have an International license. If you plan to move here, you are required to obtain a French license after one years time. A driver must be 18 to drive here. So, for all you 16 and 17 year-olds who have your license from home, you are out of luck here.

In France drivers drive on the same side of the road as we do at home. Thankfully, it's not like in the U.K. where you are trying to remember to be on the wrong side of the road, while managing the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car. That's the good news. What may be a little more intimidating for an American driver is that Europe is a lot older than the states and the buildings therefore are a lot closer together. That means the roads are smaller. Cars fill the roads and drivers here drive unbelievably fast, which can be a bit daunting.

Speaking of fast driving, while crossing the street, pay attention AT ALL TIMES. Just because the little man is green for you, doesn't mean cars won't be running you down. I haven't quite figured out why everyone seems to go in all directions at the same time, but drivers still will cross your path while your pedestrian light is green. So, please do yourself a favor and PAY ATTENTION!

If you do decide to drive I would recommend to get a small small small car...Did I say small? Remember the roads are much smaller than at home and parking in any metropolitan city isn't exactly easy. Without a doubt, Peugots can be easily found here and are the quintessentially small car.

Just a reminder that all signs are in metric, which should not be too much of an issue since your car will be metric, as well. Something to also note about the signs here is that the street signs are posted on the side of buildings, usually the building at the corner of a street, but not always. Because of this it is not as easy to calculate cross streets to figure out where you are; but with a little patience you can manage.

Next stop for today are the trains. You can certainly take the train from the airport into the city. You may have to transfer one or more times and considering you will have to go up and down a few stairs, you may not want this option if you have a lot of luggage to contend with. However, for the budget conscious traveler, this is definitely the way to go.

Once you are in Paris and your luggage is safely tucked in the hotel, Le Metro is an easy way to travel through the city. There are maps all over the place. You can actually buy a Paris map at home which should include the Metro map, as well. But if you are not prepared, just go the the information desk at the station. Various routes will be marked by different colors on the map. At both ends of the line it will list a letter or number; that is the train. You also look at the end of the line to see what the last stop is called; that is the direction you want. Follow the signs in the station with the letter/number AND the direction and voila, that is the train you want.

And unless you are traveling late at night, trains arrive every couple of minutes or so. In fact, I have never waited longer than 3 minutes. THREE minutes! It always amuses me when I see someone rushing to make the train only to become irritated when they don't make it. There will be another one lickety split. By the time you whip out your newspaper to kill time the next train will be there. So, there is no need in wasting energy in becoming upset. Our public transportation system could learn a thing or two from the French.

When you are on the train and your station comes up, please take note that most trains to do not open their doors automatically. Look for either the button or pull up the handle and the doors will open for you.

Some stations are easy to get through without buying a ticket. I caution you not to try this, however, as there are police officers who randomly ride the trains and check tickets. It is also good to know that they are checking to see if the current date is stamped on the ticket. When you put your ticket in a gate to enter the station, the gate will date stamp your ticket. However, for the stations that do not have a gate there is a little orange box to put your ticket in which will stamp the date on it. One way or the other, you MUST stamp your ticket before getting on the train. One does not want to deal with an officer screaming at you in a language you do not understand for breaking the rules; not to mention the fact you will have to pay a pretty hefty fine which could have easily been avoided.

Trains outside of Paris can be a little trickier. While it's easy to get into Paris from an outside train, getting back takes a little bit of education. At Gare du Nord for example, you will find an old fashioned black screen that posts the upcoming trains. Again you will want to look at the final destination to figure out if that is your train. However, for certain cities there are several trains that may have the same final destination, but they all take different routes: which means they may not go through the town that you want. The best way to go is to ask the information desk for your city, what platform (voie) and the time of the train. If you have these three pieces of information you should be ok. Take it from someone who has had to come back to Paris to get to the right train, it is just easier to ask.

The best mode of transportation while in Paris proper is your own two feet. One of the best ways to really discover the identity of a new city is to walk it. Who knows what you will find. Maybe you will see a concert violinist playing; maybe you will see the most beautiful floral arrangments at a florist. Maybe you will find the pâtisserie that the Parisians go to where you can order a decadent dessert that we can't find at home. Besides, walking gives you the exercise you need to walk off the extra calories you eat while you are here. No wonder the French are thin...they walk everywhere!

Thank you for reading and bonne journée!